Mari - Korean Handroll — Restaurant in New York

I was kind of on the fence about booking Mari. I had an unfortunate experience with Kochi (same chef/owner) where I discovered single diners cannot reserve at the counter. I mean…this is NYC. Come on! But I LOVE Omakase and Korean and I follow Mari on IG and I live in Vermont and, if I’m lucky, I get to NYC for two meals a month…I had to book and I was able to book at the counter. So fine. The recent IG posts from Mari have been FANTASTIC and I was pretty excited. I like to dine early and Mari’s first seating is 5pm. Awkwardly I was the first person to arrive, but everyone at Mari was friendly and welcoming.

Y’all Hell’s Kitchen is The Place right now. I know there is a WHOLE lot of you who don’t remember Manhattan from back in The Actual Day. But, Hell’s Kitchen is just perfection right now: Theatre District/Midtown/Upper West Side adjacent. Presumably with slightly less idiotic rents and some restaurants are figuring that out. Most notably Kochi and Mari. But also there is an entire WEALTH of spots to eat down there along 9th Ave. Mari is right there, in the heart of it. I saw the matinee of “Kimberly Akimbo” at The Boothe Theatre on W 45th (between 8th and 9th) and then just walked to the corner and turned right on 9th and walked 1.5 blocks.

This is a GENIUS LOCATION. GENIUS.

There are two tasting menus at Mari. I’m just going to call them “smaller” ($145 handroll tasting) and “larger” ($185 Mari tasting). Obviously, I went “larger.” I don’t remember how many courses, but plenty. They did caution me to block out two hours for my meal. That is PRECISELY what I want to hear! 2 hours is my minimum restaurant visit. When I show up I am going to throw down! But also? If I’m showing up for a $185 tasting situation? That’s going to be my only meal of the day because I want to ENJOY every moment of a spectacular meal. And I want every meal I eat out to be spectacular.

Mari is just gorgeous inside: huge rectangular bar with 7 cooks/prep people behind it. The bar alone must seat about 40 people when full. Beautiful white marble (my absolutely favorite stone/surface). There is also a small “dining area” in the back with maybe 10 tables. Mari is slightly “unusual” for the kind of spots I love: Chef Songchul Sim (he’s got 1 Michelin Star at Kochi and 1 Michelin Star here at Mari so SNAPS to this man!!) is the owner and was actually in the house last might while I was at Mari. So, YES, Chef-owned. ALWAYS ALWAYS throw your hard earned $$$ at the Chef Owned spots. Please.

I don’t eat beef, pork or poultry. Mari had no problem substituting for me.

Service is excellent. The most extraordinary thing was that I told my chef (one of the chefs presents each course to you and describes it to you) that I’m a little hard of hearing and he ACTUALLY increased his speaking volume so I heard every word he said. People! You’re thinking this isn’t that impressive. This s VERY impressive. This almost never happens to me and then I just PRETEND I can hear what they’re saying. LOL When eating an Omakase meal, knowing what you’re being served is a huge part of the experiences. Being able to HEAR everything clearly is an important aspect.

Including myself there were 3 people eating alone at the counter. The woman directly across the bar from me was celebrating her birthday. Great, fun, NYC vibe.

You need your full 2 hrs because at the end of the Omakase, but before the dessert course you get the opportunity to “repeat” any course you’ve been served. Which I did, but I had to think on the fly! Next time I will pay closer to my menu because I like to have a whole PLAN when I eat. Omakase is my absolute favorite because someone else creates the plan for me! I want to eat all the delicious things. I’m here to eat all the delicious things that masterful, gifted people have planned and prepared.

Mari is definitely on my list to visit as regular as...

A playful, fine dining take on Korean handrolls.

After having a great experience at Kochi last month, Mari was next on my list. A dining experience that reimagines Korean gimbap and rolls through the lens of haute cuisine. Chef Shim’s restaurants center around formats like kochi and mari—traditional Korean styles, yes, but also deeply instinctive ways of eating that echo across global food cultures. Skewers and rolls—compact, handheld, and endlessly adaptable. But that same versatility came with a trade-off: there isn’t one iconic dish that channels pure ingredient-driven precision or an inventive technique.

The kitchen at Mari was shockingly lean. Chef de Cuisine Fangaj led the opening stretch with just one sous chef and one commis behind him. About an hour in, Fangaj stepped out, and the remaining two ran the show solo for the rest of the meal—something almost unheard of in Michelin-caliber kitchens (except, maybe, for intimate omakase settings).

The meal opened strong. Egg & caviar was a sweet and intense umami bomb that was very reminiscent of Kochi’s Hwe. Here, the caviar was sadly lost in the flavor storm, overpowered by pickled fennel and egg custard itself. Thankfully, the rice cake base managed to tame the intensity. Smoked Hwe was deceptively simple. Bigeye tuna was fine, but the dish was carried by the smoky broth and subtle heat from pickled serrano. Less complex than the egg, but more balanced.

Then came the Mari section, and my favorites were the Mushroom, Scallop, and the Toro & Caviar. The rest were good, but not memorable. Mushroom was essentially a sotbop (Korean rice bowl) reimagined. Pickled morels dominated, but enoki, wood ear, and seasoned rice built a deep, earthy chorus. Scallop was a delicate mix of sweet plum-ginger purée and gamtae seaweed which provided a unique umami finish. The Toro & Caviar was far from the usual rich-on-rich snooze. Here, passionfruit-urchin jelly and micro flowers cut through the fat with a fragrant, citrusy lift.

Like many Korean fine dining spots in the city, the entrée arrived as a composed meal, anchored by a main dish and accompanied by banchan. But nothing here really stood out. The pho-inspired broth with vermicelli leaned into comfort rather than complexity, which made the supporting players—the mustard vinaigrette and chili oil—all the more crucial. They added needed contrast, but didn’t quite elevate the dish beyond familiarity.

One area where Chef Shim continued to excel, though, was in palate cleansers. The hibiscus granita with yogurt sorbet and omija was spectacular. It didn’t look flashy, but each spoonful delivered layers of bright acidity, subtle sweetness, and texture. Arguably the most refined and memorable bite of the night.

The meal as a whole was solid, but lacked a true “wow” moment. It also underscores just how much the Michelin guide tends to favor Japanese-inspired technique and presentation. After all, “mari”—as a format—relies more on composition than on...

Seated at the chef’s counter, I had the absolute pleasure of watching a team of incredibly skilled chefs work in unison; their technique, precision, and creativity on full display. It felt like watching a beautifully choreographed performance, each dish coming together in real-time before being served as a masterpiece on the plate. Every bite was balanced and thoughtful, blending textures and flavors that melt seamlessly in your mouth. I was even fortunate to try a dish off the menu that the savory chef was testing out.

The wait staff was equally phenomenal; attentive, professional, and intuitive. Utensils were replaced between each course and the table was kept spotless, allowing me to stay completely immersed in the experience without distraction.

The progression of dishes was perfectly paced. The egg and caviar was a rich, indulgent way to start, followed by the Kingfish Hwe Muchim , a light, refreshing, and bursting with flavor. The watermelon granita added a surprise twist: what looked sweet had an incredible spicy kick that played perfectly on the palate.

The salmon, branzino, and mushroom Mari offered savory, earthy depth. When I requested a substitution for the scallop Mari, the chef presented a fluke over corn/seaweed tart with apricot jam which was beautifully balanced, fresh, and innovative.

Standout moments included the Toro and caviar- The chef’s special, a luxurious blend of sweet and savory, absolutely a must-try. The spicy tuna Mari was elevated with crispy potatoes and a tangy aioli that perfectly offset the spice. The eel Mari with duck Pâté was bold and satisfying, a unique combination that worked flawlessly.

The potato croquette, paired with the Korean pho and its dual infusers (mustard and chili), brought warmth and depth. The brisket Mari over mustard sauce took on new dimensions with a dash of chili, and the garlic broccolini was divine on its own, but transformative when dipped into the pho broth.

For dessert, everything was refreshing and inventive. The apricot sorbet, oolong granita, and cherries soaked in a blossom syrup tasted like summer in a spoon; floral, light, and cleansing. The coconut sorbet with Philippine lime curd and zest was tangy and bright, while the motchi with caramel sauce was the warm, decadent finale. It was soft, sweet, and melt-in-your-mouth comforting, the kind of dessert you wish would never end.

Mari isn’t just a restaurant, it’s a culinary performance. Every dish is artfully crafted, flavors are deeply layered, and the hospitality is top-tier. A must-visit for anyone looking for a truly elevated dining...