Tempio Maggiore — Attraction in Rome

There is no doubt that both the exterior and the interior of Rome's Great Synagogue is breathtaking in its magnificence and splendour. And that, unfortunately, is what really turned me off. As a Torah observant Jew I found the whole experience totally overwhelming. I found myself wondering why the Roman Jewish community felt the need to compete - for want of a better word - with Rome's 900 churches. Admittedly I have not been inside any of these churches but I got a clear sense of their opulence as I passed the odd church's open door.

If you are visiting Rome, the Great Synagogue, the Jewish museum and the surrounding ghetto, is a must see. Be aware, as a functioning synagogue, there is a strict dress code for both men and women, although I cannot confirm how strictly it is enforced.

A word about the Synagogue tour guide: because of the vastness of the place and the number of tourists, it was sometimes very difficult to hear or understand what the guide was saying. So my advice is sit right next to where the guide is standing.

The Great Synagogue's onsite Museum is fantastic. Some artefacts go back to the first Jews who were brought there after Titus's destruction of the Second Temple in Jerusalem in 70AD. It's not the world's biggest museum but what's on display is fascinating. A lot of exhibits have been donated by the Roman Jewish community over the centuries.

The museum's shop sells tourist rubbish in the main but, again, it's worth having a browse.

The surrounding ghetto: well, there's certainly no shortage of kosher restaurants. Are they any good? Well, the one we had lunch at was "okay" - better than some and not as good as others. The two women out front were surly and aggressive. The Asian(?) waiter was very obliging. Not the cheapest kosher restaurant we've been to but not the most expensive.

Finally, there are a few gift shops in the ghetto area. They sell tourist rubbish in the main. They also sell non kosher wines and balsamic vinegars alongside kosher ones. So if you're observant, beware!

Enjoy your...

The Tempio Maggiore di Roma (Great Synagogue of Rome) is a stunning architectural and historical landmark located in the heart of Rome, near the Tiber River and within the former Jewish Ghetto. Inaugurated in 1904, it was designed by architects Vincenzo Costa and Osvaldo Armanni in an eclectic style that blends Greek, Assyrian-Babylonian, and Art Nouveau influences. Its square-shaped aluminum dome is a unique feature, standing out in Rome's skyline and symbolizing the emancipation of the Jewish community after centuries of restrictions.

The synagogue was built following the unification of Italy and the abolition of the Ghetto in 1870. It represents a newfound freedom for Roman Jews, who had lived in the city for over 22 centuries but were confined to the Ghetto under papal rule from 1555 until their emancipation. The building’s monumental proportions and intricate design reflect this pivotal moment in history.

Inside, the synagogue is equally impressive. It features a Greek cross plan with a segmented dome, vibrant stained-glass windows, and richly decorated walls. The Aron (Ark) is framed by Assyrian-style columns and gilded details, while women's galleries overlook the prayer hall from three sides. The synagogue also houses the Jewish Museum of Rome, which showcases artifacts, documents, and exhibits detailing the long history of Jews in Rome—from ancient times to modern-day.

It was closed during my visit—possibly due to renovations. The Tempio Maggiore is not only a place of worship but also a cultural hub that tells the story of resilience and integration of one of Europe’s oldest Jewish communities. Even if you cannot enter, its exterior alone is worth seeing for its architectural grandeur and historical...

This is not to deny the physical beauty and elegance of the synagogue. However, my openly religious friends and I believed the Central Synagogue in Rome to be the one place in Rome where we could be certain to be welcomed and accepted. We could not have been more wrong.

First, we arrived with 10 men, along with a man saying Kaddish for his mother, and asked to use the synagogue to pray. This request wasn't even considered, and we were forced to pray outside on the road, feet away from the shul.

Next, we asked to at least be allowed to see the space (obviously willing to pay and all), and we were denied, as "they close at 4:15." Mind you, this was 4:10.

Later on, it started raining heavily, and my friends and I, having nowhere to shelter, came back to the synagogue 25 minutes before prayers, and once again were denied access, forced instead to wait in the rain.

In summary, what should have been a moving and uplifting experience, seeing Jewish representation after a day in a city where it felt like there was none, turned into a bitter and distasteful memory, indicative of what many European communities have turned into. It's not that I don't understand the need for security. As an assistant rabbi myself (and I was visibly one when we were turned away), I certainly sympathize. However, what we went through felt far less like security and more like harassment.

All this in no way reflects on the community from everyone we interacted with so far its been nothing but pleasant and warm.

This seems to be more of an administrative problem where this shul exists only as (profitable) historical monument and no longer as the heart of the jewish community, which is what a shul is and should be

Signed:...