Spitalfields — Restaurant in Dublin

I had very high hopes for Spitalfields' food, and for the most part it delivered. The bites weren't memorable, but the starters and mains were exceptional, worth returning for.

The booking was made for me as a gift, and we were seated upstairs. Next time I'll opt for the bar, as it seemed a bit more lively, with the upstairs being a bit more subdued. Nice and quiet enough for a conversation though, a decent room.

We ordered 2 cocktails to start, and they took quite a while, nearly half an hour to receive. At the minute 25 mark I asked about them, and was told they weren't forgotten, they were just busy. The seating area upstairs was about half full, but downstairs did seem fully occupied, which I felt still didn't warrant such a wait. The drinks came out shortly after.

We placed the full order - bites, starters, mains, sides. The bites came quickly - scallop was nice, oyster & tartare dish didn't do it for us, not really spectacular but by no means bad.

We then switched to glasses of wine for the remainder of the meal as my dishes lent themselves to white and hers to red, and the selection available was solid enough. Starters and main courses were fantastic. With different company I would have ordered one of the sharing dishes, however I was with a vegetarian, which limited my options. I had a tuna tartare to start and the pork chop. Tuna was vibrant, pork was perfectly cooked over charcoal - both were delicious. We got chips as a side, they were decent and crispy, an aioli would have been a good accompaniment to them.

During the experience, there was a man who wasn't wearing an apron and was hovering throughout, abruptly entering into the space now and then. He'd ask if everything was alright, but would be looking off into the distance. I don't think service is his strong point. We speculated that there was a massive bout of illness within the Spitalfields camp and they had to draft in the accountant to help run the floor. He seemed uncomfortable and sidetracked; if he was 30 years younger I'd have bet that he was off his head on whatever drug he needed to get himself through a service full of human interaction.

Our server was pleasant, but it seemed he had all of the upstairs to cover and they probably could have used another person.

We ordered the Basque cheesecake for dessert - it was perfect. However, as it was dropped by the plain-clothed man, I asked him if we could get 2 Irish coffees. He looked at me, then looked up at another table, then scurried away to the table. I wasn't sure if he heard me, but then again he was right next to me. We were baffled. I then thought I'd get the server's attention, but I saw he was taking an order for a table of 4 in the distance, so I'd wait. The man then reappeared, and said 'sorry, what was it you wanted?'. Which was bizarre, because that indicated that he did in fact hear me, but still chose to run away. So strange.

We got the Irish coffees, they were delicious. The glassware they came in was a very nice touch. Midway through them, and about 5 minutes from when they were dropped, the man who was not the server reappeared and said he needs the table back but offered to move us to the bar. We were seated at 6:15pm and it was around 7:45pm, so it wasn't like we were overstaying our welcome. He gestured to the bar behind our seats, but it was stacked with quite a few dirty glasses. It didn't look inviting. I also looked at my watch and saw that we had been at that table for an hour and 35 minutes. 30 minutes of which we were waiting for our first drink.

We necked the Irish coffees and moved on.

Bill was around €225 which was fine. We had no particular budget and probably would have spent more on booze if the initial cocktail from the apertif menu came out quicker. Paying the 12.5% mandatory service charge was painful.

I couldn't help but further speculate - were we not treated well because we aren't tourists?

I'll give it another chance at some point based on some of the dishes I had, but I really hope the service element is...

The inventive and restrained deliciousness of the food, excellence of service and conviviality of the welcome are true and, thankfully, as unwavering and unassuming as ever. Now internationally acclaimed Spitalfields combines the forgiving swaddling intimacy of an historic and authentic local Dublin Pup with the bright precision of the inspired modern local food culture. It’s rare and even unique that both moods are under one roof. Spittlefields stands vivid and proud on a corner facing the mythic maternity hospital the Coombe, birthplace to a nation. The area, « the liberties » is cradle and home to authentic Dublin and the true « Dubs » who live there. Frank and un-frilled the locals, for whom this pub remains a pillar of their community, are admired and known for their lyrical, inventive and irrereverent flair for language and ready laughter. These merits are evoked and paid homage by the quality and deft restraint of chef Colin Brogan’s delicious mastery of produce he confidently allows shine. Japan, the Med, Hong Kong, Europe may all hang in the ether as influences but the character of your dish will remain loyal to its ingredients in a very true and contemporary, even irish, way. The laughter quality of the locals is present in the great talent of manager Declan Maxwell, a consummate yet informal professional (former of some of the city’s best restaurants) the cheeky bright maestro of welcomes. Phelim at the bar, a proper Dub (he grew up only a street away), has that wry charm that brings a smile and puts all at ease. Each is as humorous as the other and together they could give any talk show host a run for their money. The team usually comprises trainees from France which may be a bonus for patrons wishing to brush up. Today Spitalfields, though a restaurant of calibre, still remains a pub to its longtime locals. The change is that it is no longer a secret kept best in the surrounding streets . The « salt of the earth » locals now brush shoulders with initiated insiders enjoying delicious food conjured with talent, heart and no artifice. The varied clientele mirrors the values of the place, though sometimes posh rarely pretentious. Albeit Spitalfields nods to nostalgia it’s culinary feet are solidly rooted in modernity. The menu straddles the natural and wholesome and proper sophistication. Maybe, for those in need of a pigeon hole its qualities harken to the “farm to table” movement of yore. Produce is local and, thankfully, the wines are not! Stellar Ingredients are proposed in season. The wine list is considered with a full spectrum of prices inclusive of all profiles of patron. I often opt for Phelim’s suggestion of a lovely white from Vienna or (and sometimes and) an interesting French red both considerately available by the glass. My rambling point here is that though the food comforts it is never complacent and when welcomingly frank never tritely confronting. All here is handsomely confident and knowing. Though its eggs are devilled the rest of the menu brushes with the celestial! Lamb ,in season, is a signature must. Fish, delicate delicious and interesting, I savour the memory of an amazing cock-a-leeky pie shared by two, slow roast pineapple for dessert, house smoked delicate mackerel served with house relish, organic heirloom potatoes are too smoked to popular acclaim. Some of the best of modern ireland’s great cheeses are well represented. There’s no square meat or plates here, nothing is stacked and nothing foams to an aspirational emulsion. This is not a gastropub, it is more jus than foam, more heart than concept, warm and welcoming yet cheeky and bright. Cheap it ain’t, expensive it isn’t and worth it is. ...

First, please make a reservation. Please. You really need one.

Second, Declan is one of the most gracious and charming managers I have ever met. Quick with a joke and willing to spend time with his guests, he wins over a table with ease and grace. He handled our reservation expertly and worked with me on some of our requests with no qualms.

Third, the concept of a pub with upscale food might seem out of sorts to some. It didn't to me. And it rewards those who are looking for that sort of vibe. The interior is warm and inviting, without being too on-the-nose or too rustic. The music that is piped in is surprisingly retro-contemporary. The staff are knowledgeable, up to the point that our server said, politely, "You shouldn't order any more food." Who does that?!?!

The food was almost perfect. Why almost? My cousin's lamb was a bit tough, with a bone-to-meat ratio that seemed off for the price (but, to be fair, we didn't complain because we were having a wonderful time and things happen). My fish was a touch dry, even as the sauce and accompaniments were delightful. Otherwise? Spot on! The starters, the sides, and the other mains were expertly prepared and delivered at a perfect pace. One standout? The oyster and tartar. Yes, you only get one per order. So, you order as many as you need. And, trust me, this is not a dish to be missed. What doesn't sound like it should work is a perfect version of surf-and-turf that I am surprised I haven't seen anywhere else! A delicious bite that leaves people stunned (and the presentation is great too). The deviled eggs are also an example of a well-priced and well-prepared starter, a solid take on an old classic made better by the addition of the brine note from the fish eggs.

And then . . . the power went out! What could have been a disaster was instead handled with care. As the desserts came out under candlelight, the end of our night was as good as our start at Spitalfields.

The handling of payment is just another reason to recommend this place. No power? No way to process credit cards. Trust me, it was handled wonderfully.

Declan, you deserve your restaurant's accolades. Thing is, you don't act as though they are markers to which your guests are subjected (some fine dining restaurants do). Instead, you treat guests as welcomed friends.

My group left with smiles on our faces and a sense of gratitude. To the one, when (not if) we return to Dublin, one of our first reservations will be at your...