Jean-Georges at The Shinmonzen — Restaurant in Kyoto

Knowing how little you might want to read, I'll give the bottom-line-up-front: Go to Jean-Georges at The Shinmonzen.

I don't often write a review directly after having been to a restaurant. The memories are too fresh, the wine too intoxicating and the emotions too unrefined or reflected on. Still, I thought it prudent since this is my second time (the first time especially chosen) visiting Jean-Georges of the Kyoto variety.

Before even walking in, you are greeted at the door, almost as though it is a secret entrance few would be allowed through. Shown to our seats (highly recommended to sit at the counter), we have a perfect view of the open-plan kitchen. Before the meal even starts my mouth is watering as I watch a young chef twirl ribbons of tuna into a spiral and place them into a shallow bowl. He smile when I ask what I'm looking at, taking time to explain the dish all the while completing it. Then, that dish flows back to a stern-looking young chef, (Chef Hana Yoon at time of writing) who perfects it, pulling the two younger chefs from the front in order to show them what the exact specifications of the plate should be.

While I am enraptured with this process, a man in a suit welcomes my wife and I and - in-between learning about the wine and non-alcoholic pairing options we could (and would) partake in - he informs us that Chef Yoon has made a special menu, not written down, for my wife, who is pregnant. Our surprise is genuine. Restaurants we'd been to thus far had either overly-cooked their dishes, or simply removed them from the menu for us. A regrettable, yet understandable path to ensure our future-child's safety. Yet - even as the amuse bouché arrive - we are greeted instead by a new menu, hand-crafted for our needs and with a non-alcoholic pairing as well!

This theme would continue throughout the night, with the staff making various exceptions for us while simultaneously upholding the standard that earned the Jean-Georges their Michelin star. It was a night I won't soon forget, and a night I hope to repeat again very soon.

Well done to everyone at the Jean-Georges, and a hearty thank you - once again - to our wine extraordinaire, Victor (apologies for the spelling) and Chef Yoon.

どうもありがとうございます! Merci beaucoup...

After having lunch and dinner here at Jean-Georges, I can safely say that if you just have one meal here, it should be the prix fixe lunch menu with pork as the entree. You will be very full and satisfied. The Wagyu really melts in your mouth but I find it too fatty. However, if beef is your thing, go for it. And the salmon? Well, it is Japanese farmed trout salmon. Yes, farmed fish on a one Michelin star restaurant menu. It is perplexing to say the least, knowing that Japan is surrounded by water and fish is swimming all around. But, getting things to Kyoto may not be easy. I don’t know. Farmed salmon were found to be toxic because of their feed and heavy use of antibiotics and so any kind of farmed fish anything doesn’t conjure up a very good impression.

So, for dinner, I was thinking of getting the salmon but after learning about it, I went for the pork. I also got the crab dumplings. Yes, these are the very same dumplings that the Michelin editor has said that were most memorable and it was this dish that had drawn me to this restaurant. Sigh. It just goes to show what does a Michelin editor know? The dumplings were prepared of high quality ingredients but it was the most disappointing and worst thing among what I had had there. The taste was bland and the choice of the broth going in the direction of a sour taste confuses me as to whether this should be a seafood tom yum kung or what? The sourness just overpowered everything and don’t even get me started on the massive amount of squash that were piled on top. Last month, I was in Hokkaido and had freshly steamed king and hairy crabs. This does not represent Hokkaido crab well at all. However, this dish will most likely be left on the menu because other shmucks like me will come here looking for the gorgeous dumplings that they saw on the Michelin website, being raved by one of its editors. By the way, the server never brought any wet towels before dinner started and they were serving me sourdough bread and butter. 😢

I had previously made a reservation for the lunch the next day and so I kept the promise and showed up for my one o’clock reserved time. I went for the prix fixe menu with a supplement for the Wagyu. It was a delicious meal....

one star michelin and food was really good! i was pleasantly surprised by the bold incorporation of spice into the dishes (uni and salmon). must be a first in my fine dining experience; esp french food! i really liked it.

salmon seems like q an ordinary / cheap ingredient but chef hana yoon managed to elevate it both in the salmon crispy rice nigiri and the main course. all the other dishes were also outstanding, especially the steak and pistachio crusted broccoli, the black forest dessert and caviar egg toast. we also had multiple servings of the biscuit (scone like bread) - all french restaurants should serve biscuits!!

if u prefer french wine over jap wine like i do, do also go for the wine pairing as the wines r all french wines!

i enjoyed watching chef yoon work with finesse from my counter view - she takes a lot of pride in her work and does a lot of the cooking herself! her sous chefs and the sommelier were also super friendly and nice to talk to. i much prefer this to a stuffy pretentious environment.

my only gripe is that we tried to walk in the day before to make a reservation and the japanese maître d told us that they were fully booked at our requested time slot but when we checked online and there were still tables available. the restaurant was also not full during our dining time? felt honestly like we were turned away for...