Devaneio Gastropub — Restaurant in Coimbra

When I asked Bruno, sommelier at SOMM Wine Atelier (see my review) for a dinner recommendation in Baixa de Coimbra, he sent me to Devaneio Fire Dining and told me to ask for his sommelier school classmate Ricardo Zuna. I didn’t hesitate for a second, thinking “now, THIS is going to be special!” Luckily, Ricardo (who goes by Zuma), wasn’t hard to find. In fact, he approached me with a calm, confident professionalism and managed to squeeze me in without a reservation when I told him that Bruno had referred me. Although Devaneio has a lovely indoor dining area, almost everyone opted for dining outdoors, partially because it was an exceptionally beautiful summer night (the heat had subsided and a fresh breeze was blowing) but also because the setting was something straight out of an al fresco fantasy. In a courtyard nestled between historic buildings dripping with character were tables set with understated flower arrangements and muted lighting. The sweet sonorous notes of musician Nuno Saa wafted through the air and competing for the diners’ attention were mouth-watering scents emanating from the grillmaster working his magic over an open flame. The concept of Devaneio’s “fire dining,” Zuma explained, was to celebrate fire as the “soul” of the cuisine, thereby preserving authentic Portuguese cooking methods and seasonal ingredients as the framework where an innovative and ever-evolving gastronomy could be layered on top so that it is both rustic and elevated simultaneously. For example, Devaneio’s breads served as a couvert (Portuguese appetizer) are based on traditional sourdough recipes and baked in-house (there’s that fire again) but they had a unique flavor unlike any breads I had tasted in Portugal. When it came time to select a white wine that would complement the sea bass I ordered as an entrée, I deferred to Zuma’s expertise, which did not disappoint. All the flavors and textures—moist salt from the fish, smoky crispiness from the grill, velvety fruit from the wine, and tangy grass from the olive oil—were harmoniously balanced like a symphony for the senses. For dessert, I ordered a raspberry crème concoction that was delightful with the tawny port Zuma recommended for me. A pleasant surprise were the delectable amuse-bouches servers offered during the meal and an even more exciting surprise was the white port Zuma poured as a special treat (if you haven’t tried white port, you’ve got to do it, it’s sensational). The Portuguese word Devaneio translates to “daydream” or “reverie.” I came away thinking that this restaurant was aptly named because my dining experience at Devaneio was more sublime than anything I had conjured up in my vivid imagination. I’m sure I’ll be dreaming about it for many...

Exquisite dining without the pretensions!

l've wanted to visit this place for quite some time, and have already made several bookings which I needed to cancel for a variety of reasons, so when an unexpected opportunity for a date night with my wife cropped up, I booked the moment I realised the in-laws were taking the kids for the weekend!

The service and attention to detail did not disappoint-hours before our reservation the restaurant called to be sure about food allergies and to confirm if we wanted an outdoor or indoor table. Upon arrival we were treated with care, with menu details carefully explained. It's clear the staff here aren't just professional, but take massive pride in the food they serve, and their recommendations. The orange-zest detail in the aromatised butter was a joy to the tastebuds, and a much preferred option for us than dipping bread into olive oil.

We shared the "Braised shrimp, grilled asparagus and tiger milk "leche de tigre"" as a starter. The shrimp perfectly cooked, and the "tiger milk" had just the right accompanying kick of ginger to it.

For mains we both had the same. Veal sirloin, ratatouille, portuguese cabbage, veal jus. My wife doesn't eat much red meat in restaurants, but watching the outside chef work with the fire, it looked like some cows had wisely given their lives for the benefit of our palates! Perfectly seasoned and cooked, we could have happily taken more of the cabbage on the side. I joked about demanding a side or rice and chips, but the truth is the portion size was perfect, I didn't miss some greasy carbs and the vegetables were just right and brought a fresh contrast to the veal.

Along with other touches including puréed carrot and parsnip taster, courtesy of the chef, and the glass of muscatel with dessert, this place made us feel special.

Staff were delicate and carefully, took pride in beautifully presented food and a delightful culinary experience, but without what could easily have been a pretentious environment. The live music was perfect, with a guitarist who could actually sing well, and he played an eclectic and easy going mix of classics we could dip in and out of yet maintain our conversation and people watching.

We'll...

We had a special night at Devaneio. The food and wines were great, and the staff was very caring and approachable, making us feel welcome from the moment we walked in. However, while the attentiveness was appreciated, it felt a bit too much at times. We were asked multiple times if everything was okay with each course, which, although well-intentioned, disrupted our dining experience slightly. Additionally, there were moments when we found ourselves without the necessary cutlery or waiting longer than expected to pay. These were minor issues in an otherwise delightful visit.

Despite these small hiccups, the charm of Devaneio and its staff's dedication to great customer service was shining through. Allowing the service to be more organic would enhance the dining experience, allowing guests to fully enjoy the wonderful food, great wines, and the welcoming ambiance without interruption. Our visit to Devaneio was memorable for all the right reasons, and with a few adjustments, the experience could be even...