Basilica of Saint Mary of Minerva — Attraction in Rome

The only Gothic church in Rome, the Basilica Santa Maria sopra Minerva (Basilica of St. Mary over Minerva) is so named because it was built directly on the foundations of a temple to Minerva, the goddess of wisdom.

The basilica that stands today was begun in 1280. Architectural changes and redecorations in the 1500s and 1900s stripped it of some of its magnificence, but it still includes an awe-inspiring collection of medieval and Renaissance tombs.

Just behind the Pantheon is the Piazza della Minerva, whose focal point is an endearing sculpture of a cheery baby elephant carrying a small Egyptian obelisk on his back. It was sculpted by Bernini in 1667. It is said to represent Pope Alexander VII's reign and illustrate the moral that strength should support wisdom.

The Egyptian obelisk is much older - it was found in the ruins of a temple of Isis that once stood nearby. Nothing visible remains of the Temple of Minerva (or Isis) over which the present church was built, but some Roman remains are visible in the crypt.

Santa Maria sopra Minerva has a remarkably plain facade (17th-century), with three small portrals and three round windows. This belies the richness and size of the interior beyond. Inside, the viewer's eye is immediately drawn to the arched vaulting, painted blue with gilded stars and accented with brilliant red ribbing. The former is a 19th century restoration in the Gothic style.

To the left of the apse is a muscular Christ Bearing the Cross, carved by Michelangelo for the church in 1521. The bronze drapery covering Christ's nakedness was added later.

Saint Catherine of Siena (1347-1380), patroness of Europe, is buried under the altar (except her head, which is in Siena). The tomb includes an effigy of the virgin saint sculpted in 1430 by Isaia of Pisa.

Beyond the sacristy is the very room where St. Catherine died - sort of. She died in a house on a nearby street and the room was reconstructed here by Cardinal Antonio Barberini in 1637. This was the first transplanted interior and the progenitor of familiar 19th- and 20th-century museum "period rooms." The great monastic painter Fra Angelico died in the adjoining Dominican monastery and is buried in the Frangipane Chapel to the left of the altar choir. His tomb features an inset effigy of the artist in repose but with eyes open, also by Isaia of Pisa. Fra Angelico's painting of the Virgin and Child hangs over the...

The Basilica of Santa Maria sopra Minerva is one of Rome’s most exquisite hidden treasures, a true masterpiece that effortlessly blends history, art, and spirituality. The moment you step inside, you are transported into a world of Gothic splendor that is unique in the Eternal City. This church, with its soaring arches, vibrant stained glass, and stunning frescoes, offers a visual feast that is both overwhelming and deeply moving.

One of the highlights of Santa Maria sopra Minerva is Michelangelo’s “Christ the Redeemer.” The sculpture’s sheer power and grace are breathtaking, capturing the divine in a way only Michelangelo could. Standing before this masterpiece is a humbling experience, as you witness the delicacy with which every muscle and expression is rendered, conveying both strength and serenity.

The church is also home to the tomb of St. Catherine of Siena, a site of immense spiritual significance. The presence of such an important historical and religious figure adds a profound depth to the visit, making it not just an exploration of art but also of faith. The beautifully carved tomb, surrounded by vibrant frescoes, invites quiet contemplation and reverence.

What sets this basilica apart is the mesmerizing ceiling, painted in a deep blue with gold stars that evoke the heavens. This celestial canopy, combined with the soft light filtering through the stained glass windows, creates an atmosphere that is both ethereal and intimate. It’s a place where the sacred and the artistic converge, offering a perfect sanctuary for reflection.

Despite its grandeur, Santa Maria sopra Minerva is often less crowded than other famous Roman churches, allowing for a more personal and unhurried experience. This sense of tranquility, coupled with the church’s stunning artistic treasures, makes it a must-visit destination for anyone who appreciates history, art, or simply seeks a moment of peace amidst Rome’s bustling streets. Santa Maria sopra Minerva is not just a church; it’s a journey into the heart of Rome’s rich cultural and...

Oh!

A Church!

In Rome?

What's this doing here?

But though my head may spin in trying to relate past accounts of a positive avalanche of Roman churches, there is no problem with dear Sopra Minerva. It remains vivid and distinct in my mind and memory. For this Sopra Minerva has a host of advantages.

Located next door to the Pantheon, it was right in our neighborhood. We passed it countless times, and I was not averse to taking an occasional rakish shortcut right through the heart of the church itself.

All besotted of the Baroque does not mean that an anomalous Gothic interior doesn't offer a bit of very refreshing change.

There's a Michelangelo inside (front left corner of the Altar level), and while, sure, the Pieta is better, the Pieta requires two long lines, a security check at an airport level of scrutiny, and can only be viewed in a large crowd, from about 200 paces away, through a foot thickness of acrylic glass that bounces the flashes of constant photo taking into one's eyes. Meanwhile this one is nearly as good (check out the leg!), and you can get within about 3 inches of it on the least whim.

There's just something about that Minerva ceiling, like the first stars at the very end of dusk, that makes me go all whoozy inside, like, and I hope you'll forgive me, the prelude swamp scene sky at the start of the Disneyland ride Pirates of the Carribbean. Two peas in a pod.

P.S. Never mind that the exterior is bland. Enjoy the...