St. John's Co-Cathedral — Attraction in Valletta

"Shall we go in?",

asked the english woman of her boyfriend as she looked at the (not very long) queue to enter the Co-Cathedral of St John.

"Nah. You're alright",

he replied,

"I've seen some cathedrals at home."

And off they wandered. No doubt in search of something they couldn't see at home.

I found myself hoping the next thing they saw would be one of the original red, Gilbert Scott 'phone boxes that can be found on the streets of Valletta. You certainly can't see those at home.

I stayed put and joined the queue.

Although I have seen and indeed worshipped and sung in many cathedrals at home, none had what this one has. Something I had travelled one thousand four hundred and fifty six miles to see.

I was in the queue for perhaps ten minutes and before I knew it was standing , awestruck, before "The Beheading of St John the Baptist" (1607/8).

It is an extraordinary painting. The largest of the seventy or so that survive painted by Michelangelo di Merisi, better known simply by the name of the small unprepossessing town where he lived as a child.

Caravaggio.

It is also the only one he signed for reasons I'll come to.

It is a gruesome picture but that is because it depictes a gruesome event. In almost all his religious works Caravaggio avoids any great religious message that you might hear from a pulpit, or any doctrine or theology one can find in the confessional. Rather he takes us into a moment. A moment in time with all the muck and wrongdoing, the filth, violence and brutality, the sheer bloody awfulness of the manner in which human beings behave towards one another.

And no moment in time can claim to be more violent, filthy and brutal that the one in which, severed by the executioners no doubt blunt and dirty blade, the prophet's aortic artery spews forth his blood, with some force, from his neck.

Whether or not he is quite dead at this moment is, and has been for centuries, a moot point and hotly debated. What we do know is that as the blood is expelled from the neck it flows onto the floor and forms the words 'I Caravaggio, did this'.

Is the artist simplyclaiming authorship of what many, myself included, believe to be his finest work. A work that many would number amongst the top ten most significant in the history of Western Art.

Or is it a confession to the murder of Ranuccio Tomassoni who had did during a street brawl in which Caraggio was involved. Another moment in time that came to define and shape the rest of the artists life.

As a painting it is not just gruesome though. It is also utterly, utterly beautiful.

No matter how many other cathedrals you have seen, this one is is well worth a visit.

You can also see 'St Jerome' (1607/8). Another Caravaggio masterpiece that ios all too often ovewrshadowed by by its...

A visit to St. John's Co-Cathedral in Valletta, Malta, is nothing short of a breathtaking immersion into Baroque artistry and historical significance. From the moment you step inside, you're enveloped in a dazzling display of opulent decoration, a testament to the wealth and power of the Knights of St. John. The cathedral's interior is a masterpiece in itself. The intricate marble floors, each a unique tombstone for a Knight, create a captivating tapestry underfoot. The gilded vaulted ceilings, adorned with scenes from the life of St. John the Baptist, are a visual feast, showcasing the mastery of Baroque artists. The sheer scale and detail of the decoration are overwhelming in the most positive sense, leaving you in awe of the craftsmanship and dedication that went into its creation. However, the true highlight for many, and rightly so, is the presence of Caravaggio's "The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist." This monumental masterpiece is a visceral and emotionally charged experience. The dramatic use of light and shadow, Caravaggio's signature style, brings the scene to life with a raw intensity that is both disturbing and compelling. The sheer scale of the painting, and the way it dominates the Oratory, makes it impossible to look away. It's not merely a painting; it's a powerful narrative captured in paint, a testament to Caravaggio's genius. The impact of seeing this work in person, within the context of the cathedral, is truly unforgettable. His "Saint Jerome Writing" is also present, and demonstrates the same masterful technique, allowing one to view the artist's range. Adding to the cathedral's spiritual significance is the venerated icon of Our Lady of Philermos. This miracle icon, steeped in history and reverence, provides a tangible link to the Knights' long and storied past. Its presence lends an air of profound sanctity to the cathedral, reminding visitors of its role as a place of worship and pilgrimage. The combination of artistic grandeur, historical weight, and spiritual significance makes St. John's Co-Cathedral an essential destination. It's a place where art, history, and faith converge, creating an experience that is both visually stunning and deeply moving. Whether you're an art enthusiast, a history buff, or simply seeking a moment of contemplation, St. John's Co-Cathedral offers an unforgettable encounter with the beauty and...

Fraudulent disaster!

With joyful anticipation I had joined "Museums by Candlelight Valletta" which has been promoted to be "more magical than ever", with the possibility to visit 5 sites between 19:00 and 24:00, including St. John's Co-Cathedral.

Well, the name of the event should better have been "Queuing up in Valletta", because obviously, in order to make the maxiumum amount of money, not as many tickets have been sold which would be able to comfortably accomodate the visitors, but as many tickets as possible - regardless of the completely excessive number of visitors! As result, queues of a hundred meters and more formed in front of virtually every sight - not only at an eventual peak time, but during all the 5 hours! Like sheep, people lined up for hours to wait for spending a few minutes in completely overcrowded sights. Is it possible to be more disrespectful, derogatory and ripping off tourists and locals alike?

The climax of the arrogance and contempt towards the paying visitors occurred at around 23:40 in front of St. John's Co-Cathedral: there were still around 30 to 50 people who wanted to visit the church. Behind me was a small group of Maltese and Gozitan visitors, who were told by security that they were the last people to be admitted to the church.

Instead, security was advised to close the gate at 23:45 just in front of me and told those waiting few people that the church was closed and said: “The Heritage Malta staff have already gone home”! However, the church's staff was responsible too!

Not only was this a veritable breach of contract, as the visit to the sights was officially agreed in writing on the ticket “until 00:00”, but the incredible ignorance of those responsible on site and the disregard for the people who had paid money and queued for hours speaks volumes about what Heritage Malta thinks of its paying visitors - namely nothing at all!

With these experiences, I see this event as nothing else than a fraudulent disaster and I am NOT WILLING to support this kind of unscrupulous rip-off with one single Euro! So, as a matter of principle, I want my money back asap and I will avoid all Heritage Malta events in the future and advise everyone to...