Sumiya Ryokan — Hotel in Kyoto

Expensive, but worth it for the experience if you can afford it.

I've been struggling with how to describe this Ryokan. It's a hotel, but it's also someone's home that happens to have 10+ bedrooms in it. I was thrown by the location on Google maps, as it looks like it's simply in the middle of a normal block with nothing exciting around it, but it's actually in an excellent location - short walking distance from restaurants, shopping, and the subway.

The owner and her staff were incredibly gracious and accommodating. This has been in her family for over 100 years, and they do the utmost to make sure you're happy and comfortable the entire time you're with them. Breakfast and dinner were served in my room and all were Japanese and excellent (they also had Western versions, but why eat that when you're in Japan?!).

The owner came and sat with me for 30 minutes during my first dinner and an hour the next night. She was not imposing on me, but rather I was alone, spoke English which she wanted to practice, and we were both interested in each other's life stories. It was an amazing opportunity to learn much more about Japanese culture. Both nights I brought in a larger bottle of good sake and we took turns serving each other while talking about many different topics.

As a Westerner I'm a bit uncomfortable with the level of service they wish to provide, but the owner and her staff put me at ease and helped make Kyoto my favorite city in Japan.

If I get back to Kyoto some day, I would definitely stay here again and look forward to great dinners over good food talking about Japan while sipping sake.

Oh - and take advantage of the Japanese bath tub! Shower first, then soak in the tub, then shower again (Japan does not have a water...

The good stuff: hotel is clean. Traditional as they come. Location is great. ||The ryokan hasn't been renovated or upgraded since the 70's....but has been kept in a decent condition. Speaking English with the staff was a challenge. It took me like 40 minutes to make the staff understand I didn't want the room they put me in because it reeked of cigarette smoke. I wasn't thrilled with the "10 course" meal. They should ask if guests have any kind of allergies for their own protection and the guests. The staff had language barriers to clearly explain what they were serving. Lastly, and most importantly, the noise from the room above was unacceptable. It was a family with young kids and the noise felt like elephants running above the ceiling. The room shook when they jumped up and down. Since you pay something like $500 bucks a night, they should address the noise problem. I did call and complained. But the staff didn't understand what I was saying or pretended to...

The good stuff: hotel is clean. Traditional as they come. Location is great. ||The ryokan hasn't been renovated or upgraded since the 70's....but has been kept in a decent condition. Speaking English with the staff was a challenge. It took me like 40 minutes to make the staff understand I didn't want the room they put me in because it reeked of cigarette smoke. I wasn't thrilled with the "10 course" meal. They should ask if guests have any kind of allergies for their own protection and the guests. The staff had language barriers to clearly explain what they were serving. Lastly, and most importantly, the noise from the room above was unacceptable. It was a family with young kids and the noise felt like elephants running above the ceiling. The room shook when they jumped up and down. Since you pay something like $500 bucks a night, they should address the noise problem. I did call and complained. But the staff didn't understand what I was saying or pretended to...