In Williamsport, there’s Franco’s. I’d like to call it a restaurant, but it’s so much more than that. You have to ring the buzzer to get in, and before you ring the buzzer, you must have a reservation to be considered. It feels exclusive; it feels like a secret. But those who know, know.

Upon entering, I’m greeted by the friendliest of faces—a gentle giant, whose face is also on his shirt. My table is ready, and I am seated right away. It smells like nostalgia, like your grandma’s house on a Sunday evening. It sounds like aunts and uncles laughing and catching up. The music, set at the perfect volume, includes Nina Simone’s "I’ll Put a Spell on You" and Etta James’s "Sunday Kind of Love," which captures the exact feeling of the place.

The drinks: a limoncello spritzer and a drink called the Grateful Dead, which substitutes sour mix for raspberry sambuca.

Appetizers: crispy duck tenders with raspberry BBQ sauce!? How have I never thought of this?

Bruschetta: a classic, served with Franco’s sauce and banana peppers.

Entree: Delmonico steak, medium, at market price; homemade fettuccine; and crispy Brussels sprouts.

Dessert: a single cannoli made with love, and ricotta cheesecake lighter than a feather, rich and bold in flavor. The recipe should be in Fort Knox.

I asked our server, Seth, who was amazing, what night he works. He said every night. I would too.

Chef Maria took time to visit our table she gave us hugs and shared a story about how her brother keeps the cheesecake recipe under wraps. I understand why. It’s to die for.

I understand what’s being done here—and I think everyone else does too. They’re wearing shirts with the name of their favorite place, their home. They’re asking for pictures with the big guy before they leave, and he obliges.

It’s a place that plays the songs you know the words to; everything is intentional, everything is purposeful. It feels like Philly. It feels like the bar my mom used to take me to as a kid, where the bartender would pat me on the head. It feels like home. I’m emotional because it’s like going back to a time and place that you never thought you’d see again.

On the way out, I was greeted the same way as on the way in—with a big smile and a warm hug.

I’ve been to restaurants all over the world, some on the 132nd floor, some overlooking the ocean. I can honestly say nothing compares to Franco’s.

Thank you for having me. I love it here.

Renaldo Lassiter