Girona is often regarded as a waystation en route to the Costa Brava. That’s a shame because despite its small size, Girona is endowed with a historical centre that is nothing less than an open-air architectural museum of Arab remains and Roman relics. Here’s history at its most seductive, a colourful history moulded by Muslims and Romans over an era of 14 centuries. The most intriguing places worthy of note are for the most part concentrated around the Cathedral and the Church of Sant Feliu but one activity that extends along the whole easternmost periphery of the medieval quarter is a one-hour historical walk that takes in the restored remnants of the old city walls. Across the street from the Arab Baths, a mix of old mossy steps and steep ascents overlaid with greenery lead up into a lovely garden zone, overgrown with trees and dense foliage. The absence of passageways makes the initial steps hard to realise but this should on no account hinder you from persisting in your endeavour. A few steps more and you will be practically above the first complete section of the medieval city walls. Dubbed the Passeig Arqueologic, this 50m stretch of walls leads to the 18th-century Portal Sant Cristofol, a stone gateway perched high above the Cathedral. The superb views over the labyrinthine Jewish quarter from this vantage point can be savoured as from nowhere else. Once here, you can climb down back to the Cathedral but walking along the whole length of the walls for a further 40 minutes gives you the opportunity to delight in more city views that unfold gradually as you cover more ground. Halfway along the route, you will come across a huge building incorporated into the walls. This is the Monastery of Sant Domenec, a working friary with a lovely cloister and a lavishly decorated chapter house. The route is graced by three two-floor watchtowers, historical stone structures that offer more superb views from their lookout terraces. Several steps inside (dangerous at times due to the absence of a railing) climb up to the roof from where the views extend to the sprawl of the new town. The last section of the walls directs you to the Jardines de la Muralla, a rundown green space from where a long flight of steps takes you down to Placa del General Marva.