Bar Pintxos Salcedo — Restaurant in Makati

Arrived in Manila early and lucked out with a last-minute seat at one of the city's hottest dining spots—Goxo, reopened in Salcedo Village. It's not visible to Google Map, as it's literally a hidden 12-seater asador tucked away behind a concealed door inside its sister restaurant, Bar Pintxos, offering an intimate chef's counter experience. Chef Albert Mendoza’s tasting menu blends Basque cuisine with Filipino and global influences, featuring a 5-course or a 7-course selection.

Goxo is a rarity where fusion of cuisines is expertly executed with a twist – the "Jamón" creatively reinterprets the Spanish classic with smoked talakitok (trevally) a local fish dehydrated and cleverly infused with flavoured oil to mimic the texture and taste profile of jamón, paired with compressed melon, stracciatella cheese, and almonds, inspired by the classic Prosciutto e Melone.

Another highlight is the Mollejas (sweetbreads) at Goxo: sous vided, then grilled to perfection, they boast a beautifully crisp, golden crust that gives way to a lusciously tender center. The dish is elevated with adlai, a grain from Mindanao offering a subtle nuttiness, while pickled onion and Spanish guindillas lend a sharp contrast. A final touch of burnt calamansi ties everything together with a smoky, citrusy zing.

The standout of the tasting menu was the Carrilleras (beef cheeks), slow-cooked to perfection, served with a 64-degree egg atop burnt gata (coconut cream) pilaf akin to our nasi lemak, adding rich, smoky depth. The meal was beautifully complemented by a crisp, zesty Txakoli, its bright acidity slicing through the richness of the Basque dishes, balancing the indulgence with a lively, almost effervescent charm — brought back fond memories of our food sojourn in San Sebastian.

Rounding off the superb dinner was the sinful Txokolate y Oliva,a dessert consisting of dark chocolate with almond cookie crumble and extra virgin olive oil. The year has just begun, but even with its $150 dent in my wallet, Goxo is already a strong contender for one of the best-value fine dining...

Goxo (powered by Bar Pintxos) is yet another reminder of why I find tasting menus overrated. Like many of its peers, it leans heavily on obscure ingredients and inflated pricing, yet delivers surprisingly little in terms of flavor satisfaction. Unlike others, however, it doesn’t even offer the visual appeal of an open kitchen or plated performance—so much for the “show” aspect. Service is inattentive at best, and the storytelling behind the dishes lacked spark or soul.

That said, a few of the flavor pairings were genuinely intriguing—the standout being the talakitok, brilliantly transformed into a jamón-like strip with rich umami depth. A delightful opener, the chicken skin curry ball amuse bouche balanced indulgence and ingenuity, offering a punch of flavor in an elegantly compact form. I have to applaud the salad—not just for its taste, which was lovely—but for its playful presentation. The romaine was sliced like a pizza wedge, with the leaves neatly stacked and still anchored to the stem, forming a natural handle. Toppings were artfully layered on top, inviting you to pick it up and eat it by hand, much like a slice of pizza. It’s not often that greens come with a sense of whimsy.

Finally, the principal dishes were a letdown. The pulpo was distressingly tough—more suited for rock climbing rope (sorry could not resist the dramatic exaggeration) than eating—while the delicate turbot suffered from overcooking that stripped it of its natural finesse. But the true nadir was the beef. Both the dry-aged ribeye and grilled wagyu were shockingly poor in quality—fatty, fragmented, and devoid of tenderness or delectable aroma. It felt less like a curated tasting and more like a misstep into a roadside diner,...

Quaint tapas bar with a cool vibe. If Rambla beyond Salcedo park is upscale with a clean tropical feel, this place will feel a little scuffed but metropolitan cool. Think of a bar along Colon near the beach in Barcelona instead of fancy dining along Passeig de Gracia.

The food is reheated, but flavorful and fairly priced. The kitchen is slow but they do their best. It was a busy night. They ran out of paella mixto which is such a thing in Manila. The waitstaff were okay.

The wine selection could be more expansive (paltry compared to Terry at the next building). Cocktails and hard drinkers will have more choice. The sangria was mediocre. The 2017 Malbec was just okay. We had a bottle of Protos Reserva when we last visited (which Terry also stocks). Go for that.

Check for house specials which are off the regular menu. We had chorizo + gambas and beef cheeks. They were wonderful surprises. The chorizo + gambas had great balanced flavor and texture but was reheated. The cheeks dish was tender and flavorful and, while reheated, was otherwise well executed. The bread was too rustic, almost stale, but the sauce was too good! I always liked their lengua, even if reheated.

To finish, try the Crema Catalana. They took forever to make ours, but when it came, it was perfectly torched, fluffy inside, and with just the perfect hint of zest. It had a clean disk of cream on top for consuelo.

Budget Php 500 to Php 800 per head...