In the center of Zagreb’s main square, the statue of Ban Josip Jelačić is one of the city’s most photographed landmarks. Tourists flock to it, snapping selfies and reading plaques, often treating it as the central attraction of the square. And while the statue certainly holds some historical weight—commemorating a 19th-century nobleman and military leader—it’s worth asking: is the statue truly the star of the show, or is it merely a symbol within a much larger story?
Many locals tend to see things differently. Even during time when statue was removed and locked in some dark storage the main Zagreb square had a special place in citizens heart. For many Zagrebians, Trg bana Jelačića (Ban Jelačić Square) is not defined by the statue, but by the square vibrant energy, its role as a meeting point, and its seamless blend of architecture, culture, and daily life. The square pulses with movement—trams gliding by, people rushing to near farmers market or groceries shops, street performers entertaining passersby, and cafés spilling out onto sidewalks. It’s a place where the city breathes.
The real magic lies in the square’s atmosphere: the way it connects Upper Town and Lower Town, the view of the cathedral spires in the distance, and the ever-changing rhythm of life that plays out here daily.
So why do tourists focus so much on the statue? Perhaps it’s the simplicity of a single, tangible monument—easy to locate, easy to understand. Maybe they want to check another box in the book of their voyage achievements. But to truly appreciate Zagreb, one must look beyond the bronze figure and absorb the square’s living spirit. The statue may be the first thing to see when you enter this space since, but the square has the soul. Or at least it had a soul when it was mostly populated with...
Read moreBan Jelačić Square is the central square of the city of Zagreb, Croatia, named after ban Josip Jelačić. The official name is Trg bana Jelačića. The square is colloquially called Jelačić plac.
It is located below Zagreb's old city cores Gradec and Kaptol and directly south of the Dolac Market on the intersection of Ilica from the west, Radićeva Street from the northwest, the small streets Splavnica and Harmica from the north, Bakačeva Street from the northeast, Jurišićeva Street from the east, Praška Street from the southeast and Gajeva Street from the southwest. It is the center of the Zagreb Downtown pedestrian zone.
The square has existed since the 17th century. Its first name was Harmica. The oldest standing building, dating from the 18th century, is situated at 1 Ban Jelačić Square.
In 1848, the square was renamed to its present name. A large statue of ban Josip Jelačić on a horse, created by Austrian sculptor Anton Dominik Fernkorn was installed on 19 October 1866 by Austrian authorities, despite protests from Zagreb councilmen. It also caused unease amongst Hungarians, who see Jelacic as a traitor.
A horsecar line passing through the square's southern side was introduced in 1891. In 1910–11 horses were replaced by electric trams.
In 1946, the square was renamed Trg Republike (Republic Square). Jelačić's statue was removed in 1947 as the new Communist government of Yugoslavia denounced him as a "servant of foreign interests". Antun Bauer, a curator of the Gliptoteka gallery, kept it in the gallery cellar.
After World War II, car traffic through the square intensified. In 1975, the square became a...
Read moreThis is THE square in Zagreb. In the center of the the most interesting and lively part of town. To the north of this beautiful square, the like of Polish cities, is the Dolec (Market), and the lively old streets now the main vain of night life, restaurants, stores, and bars. Also to the north, on either side of this main vain are both ancient towns of Gradec (on the left) and kaptol (to the right).
South of the square you will find the newer settlement frames by the U shaped chain of parks and notable Civic life buildings such as the old city theatre, the old main train station (Glavni Kolodvor), the imposing Hotel Esplanade, and more.
In the square quite notibly you will find the famous larger than life statue of governor Josip Jelačić, who many consider as a major influence in the establishment of a Croatian national consciousness, as well as the revolt against the exploitative feudalist system before 1848. His statue was disassembled by Tito's komunist Yugoslavia, in spite of the socialist friendly anti-aristocratic idealism of Jelačić, due to the national symbolism of the figure considered subversive to the idea of unified greater Yugoslavia. The statue was reerrected facing the opposite direction to the original one as to not offend most of the people in the square by showing them the rear end. Turning the horse and rider around defeated the symbolism intended in having him face the enemy to the north.
Also in the square is the reincarnation of ancient well where the citizens of mideval Kaptol and Gradec got their water. Today it serves as a...
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