Museum of Modern Greek Culture — Attraction in Athens

UPON THE OTTOMAN CONQUEST OF Athens, the Sultan decided to allow the city to be multi-ethnic, issuing an edict to protect and repurpose most temples and monuments for public use. This edict was in effect during the duration of the regime’s occupation.

In 1759, the Ottoman governor of Athens, Mustapha Agha Tzistarakis, ordered the building of a mosque in Monastiraki Square. In violation of the Sultan’s edict, Tzistarakis destroyed one of the pillars of an ancient Greek temple (either the Temple of Olympian Zeus or Hadrian’s Library) to make lime for the building.

Local superstition at the time was that the destruction of temples brought epidemics in its wake. Therefore, once the locals discovered that the mosque was made from a destroyed temple piece, they became so infuriated that the Sultan banished Tzistarakis from Athens to appease them. That banishment apparently was not enough, as Tzistarakis was later assassinated.

The square two-story building was capped with a hemispherical dome sitting on an octagonal base, roofed with ceramic tile. The interior was originally floor to dome, but is now two levels. On the western side of the building, there is an open portico with three arches with three small domes. Above the door, the founder’s put an inscription, which is still visible.

The building served as a mosque until the start of the Greek War of Independence, when it was used as a meeting hall for elders. Upon independence from the Ottomans, the Greek government requisitioned the building and used it in a variety of ways over the years, including as a prison, barracks, warehouse, and venue for military concerts and events. Sometime between 1839 and 1843, the building’s minaret was destroyed.

In 1915, the building went through a renovation and opened in 1918 as first the Museum of Greek Handcrafts. A small addition of offices on the ground level was added in 1920 and in 1923 it was renamed the Museum of Decorative Arts. In 1966, the building was temporarily refurbished to provide a place of prayer for King Saud of Saudi Arabia during his visit to Athens. In 1975 it was converted to an annex of the Museum of Greek Folk Art and still operates as such. In 1981, the building was damaged by an earthquake and was re-opened to the public in 1991. During the earthquake restoration work, additional museum exhibition space...

Visited on a free entrance day (7th of Jan 2024, winter months first sundays are free museums days in Greece). Amazing collection of historical items, in particular toys and clothes, but also jewels, accessories, weapons and everyday items, illustrating life in Greece and its historical evolution, including fashion and national identity development. The collection is engrossing even for non-fashion enthusiasts (like me) as the exhibition walks you through time and geography to trace human influcences and historical developments.

Additionally, you will walk around an enclosed part of an historical Athens neighborhood, as the museum is split in different historical buildings. The architectural renovation of the complex is amazing in itself.

Sadly, most buildings were closed when I visited. Also the "Tzisdarakis Mosque" building was closed; this is one of the few richly decorated mosques remaining in Athens, located on the other side of the entrance street (within the precinct of the Roman agora, but separate from it and still included in this museum's ticket).

All in all, the museum is really well done, although I don't know if I would have paid the full entrance price, especially if most buildings remain closed. Ask at the entrance before visiting if you visit on non-free days, in particular ask about the mosque. Someone mentioned that full opening should happen in spring 2024 for a full entrance price of 8€ (reduced to 4€ in...

A new highlight diamond in the pool of very good and interesting museums beside the archaeological museums. Opened in December 2023 it gives a lot of interesting topics in the life of modern greek culture. Especially the shadow theater Karagiozis in the greek culture and the traditional costumes from a lot the greek places is very interesting and interactive presented to the young and older visitors. It is fun to see the dragon eye and the told story when you dare to enter your head very close to the dragon. It's not yet finished so some of the building were close today due to last work and maintenance. It's only 4 Euro entrance and for me a perfect combination wether with the acropolis museum oder the Benaki museum. Another highlight is the really friendly staff. They give you a lot of extra information and insights to the greek modern culture. In the spring and summer it will be great to sit and enjoy a coffee or visit the restaurant. It's like a pearl in the shell. A quiet and friendly place. In the past it was a normal neighborhood and fortunately the archaeological institutions didn't started excavations there so the neighbourhood was preserved. The very central location at Monastiraki and the Hadrian's Library is also positive so you can visit it easily. Today it was my first visit and for sure not my last one. See you...