Galleria Spada — Attraction in Rome

My take on the Galleria Spada, or Palazzo Spada, has no basis in any historical facts. But like any compelling fiction it holds some kind of fundamental truth within it. So let's go with it:

There were a bunch of really rich, powerful guys in Rome. They all knew each other. And they built (or modified) their fabulous Palazzi. They had loads of ready Catholic cash, and they also had really terrific taste. They decorated spectacularly. And so today we can go visit their many amazing palaces: Barberini, Borghese, Farnese, Altemps, and so on.

On the other hand there was Cardinal Spada. He wasn't quite as rich as all the other guys. And he didn't have as good taste either. But he really wanted to be one of them. So he did his best, in a desperate, pathetic sort of way. And all the big shots humored him.

There's Cardinal Spada now, buying a painting by a big name artist. It's the cheapest one he can find, and it's not that good. "Look everyone." He cries. "I got a Durer! I got a Titian!"

"Er, is that a real Titian?"

"The guy said it was, and it was on sale!" Cardinal Spada is so excited he throws a party for his rich friends to celebrate. The food's not that good and it's skimpy. The wine tastes funny. He can't afford quite enough servants. But Cardinal Spada is so proud, and eager, and awkward.

Go to the other Palazzi and see a short list at each of them of great paintings by genius painters. But because there are only so many of those around they fill their wall space out with the best paintings by slightly less famous and brilliant artists, and then they round that all out with curiosities, and paintings along themes, or of particular interest to them.

Not Cardinal Spada. He buys blind, by name, whatever is on sale. He buys in bulk.

Then he hires Borromini to do some work on the place.

Wait, Borromini! Greatest architect in the world?

Yes, he has him do a cut rate bargain basement illusion out in the garden. It's... cute. But I picture Cardinal Spada at pains to bring it up at every social gathering: "Yeah, just having Borromini do a little work around the Palazzo." Or "Great to get away to this party. My Palazzo is so dusty what with all that architectural work Borromini is doing around the place!"

So, you may wonder, is Galleria Spada worth a visit?

Yes!!! It's not too expensive, maybe 5 euros. I love its handy location in the heart of things, near Campo de Fiori. It's pretty quiet in there too, which is never a bad thing in Rome. The paintings can surprise you by how uninteresting they are, which is no small trick when you've got work by such notable artists. But you can just sort of blaze through the opulent, though by no means terribly interesting halls, and get to the little garden courtyard.

"Hey! Isn't the Borromini out here?"

"It is! That's what everyone comes here to see."

"Is that it over there?"

"Yes it is."

It's surprisingly unimpressive, isn't it?

"Well, he was probably working with a pretty tight budget."

"Disappointing, the pictures I saw on the Internet made it look more interesting somehow."

"Yeah, it's not much to speak of."

"Hey. It's really nice out here though. Look, a cat."

"I see it. She's a very friendly cat."

"Are these lime trees?"

"Maybe. It smells so good out here, doesn't...

Warning for everyone: apparently you need to print your tickets in your homes, even if you are staying in an hotel with a bed and a bathroom, because the lady at the desk claims to not be able to scan the code out of our phones. In fact, she very rudely told me I should've read everything before buying the tickets (even though I bought the ticket for Galleria Borghese for the same day and the ticket also said Stampa@casa and they simply scanned the phone) and then proceeded to go on a power trip with me and told me to send the ticket to their email where she magically was able to scan it. How they expect tourists to print the tickets, I have no ideia. The rudeness of the lady at the reception did not help, not sure if she thought she was above me simply because I'm young but I have never met someone so rude and condescending as the front lady of this galleria (I never acted rude to her, I think I uttered only about two sentences in the middle of her 3 minute power trip). To the owners of the gallery: simply get a machine that scans tickets and hire people that actually want to be there. Thank you for a very bad experience. I didn't even want to go into the museum after the interaction at the desk but I did and thankfully the gallery was good as well as the kind woman upstairs on the Room I. To the tourists, be aware, print the tickets god knows where if you really...

Palazzo Spada, nestled in the heart of Rome, is a masterpiece of Baroque and Renaissance art and architecture. This photo captures the striking façade of its courtyard, where intricate stuccos and sculptures tell stories of grandeur and artistic brilliance. Designed in the mid-16th century, the Palazzo originally belonged to Cardinal Girolamo Capodiferro, but it owes much of its current splendor to Cardinal Bernardino Spada, who commissioned the architectural enhancements.

The ornate details, with garlands, classical motifs, and allegorical figures, reflect the Renaissance’s fascination with mythology and harmony. Above the arches, the rich stucco decorations guide the eye to the windows and heraldic shields, exuding power and status. The illuminated arches below create a warm glow, inviting visitors into the intimate yet monumental atmosphere of the palace.

Not to be missed inside is Borromini’s famous forced perspective gallery—a marvel of optical illusion where the corridor appears much longer than it truly is. Palazzo Spada now houses the Galleria Spada, an art collection brimming with Baroque masterpieces. This courtyard is a prelude to the elegance and history awaiting...