Restaurant Girardin - 1 étoile Michelin — Restaurant in Colmar-Ribeauvillé

Dining at a Michelin starred restaurant is often a dance, a carefully orchestrated ballet of flavors and presentation, and my evening at Restaurant Girardin in La Maison des Têtes was no exception. Chef Eric Girardin’s menu promised a “Journey to the Sensation World,” and while it delivered on that front, this marathon of a meal stretched into an epic 4 hours and 15 minutes, longer than I’d prefer to linger at any table.

We began our culinary odyssey with the Foie Gras. A rich and decadent start, pairing land and sea with a wild peach that added just the right touch of sweetness. It was a bold opener, and with the 2015 Trimbach Reserve Pinot Gris, it felt like the evening was off to a promising start.

Next up, Vegetal Painting, an artistic plate that captured the essence of the market, with vibrant colours and flavors that danced on the palate. Fresh, crisp, and a beautiful showcase of local produce, this dish was a testament to Girardin’s eye for detail and balance.

The Trout followed, presented in two stages with a delicate sabayon of herbs. The trout was buttery and perfectly cooked, but by this point, the pacing was starting to feel a bit sluggish. Still, the flavors were undeniable, with each bite feeling more like a carefully composed melody than mere sustenance.

Artichokes came next, in a dish that could only be described as a textural exploration. Sublimated with a Riesling sauce and pearled with mint oil, it was a fresh and inventive course, though perhaps not the most memorable of the evening. It was a dish that might be better appreciated in a more focused setting rather than in the middle of a culinary marathon.

Then came the Beef, a grilled entrecote paired with a rustic millefeuille. The meat was tender, perfectly seasoned, mine was a little too medium, and the millefeuille added a satisfying texture. It was a solid course, if somewhat overshadowed by the sheer length of the meal.

The cheese course offered a choice between Munster “Gonflé”, a dish featuring grapes, a hint of cumin, and Gewürztraminer marc, or a Cheese Platter. I opted for the Munster, which was aromatic and packed with flavour, though by this time, my palate was beginning to tire.

For dessert, we had the option of Plums, sweet cinnamon and Gewürztraminer, or the Kougelhopf, a delicate blend of vanilla and dried grapes. I went with the plums, which provided a sweet, comforting end to the meal. But as a final note, we were also sent off with an elegant block of chocolate and a few more desserts to take away, a thoughtful gesture, albeit one that felt a bit like overkill after such an extended dining experience.

By the end of the evening, the wine, the service, and the food all stood up to Michelin standards, but the duration of the meal took a toll on the overall experience. A 7-course meal should be a journey, not a marathon, and while I appreciated the artistry of each dish, the timing left something to be desired. It’s a restaurant that knows how to impress, but I’d recommend pacing yourself, and perhaps opting for a shorter menu if you want to keep the night from stretching into the...

I had an enjoyable evening, though I’d say Girardin is a bit less consistent than its Michelin peers.

We got off to a slow start, as I waited at the table for 8 minutes before anyone appeared to hand me a menu or inquire about a beverage - this in a restaurant with 7 tables in the main dining room and another 3-4 in the back area.

Eventually, things got underway and, from that point, the service was top notch. The sommelier was very helpful in making suggestions and coming up with a customized pairing (though be advised - some common selections (Burgundy) aren’t available by the glass). Servers were friendly and explained all the dishes, and made helpful suggestions along the way.

They offer both protein and vegetarian menus, which I think is great.

The courses are generally very good, but I found more course-to-course variation in terms of hits and misses vs Michelin peers.

Their seafood course (trout served 3 ways) was possibly the best I’ve ever had. A fun tartare and roe served on a crisp, a mini smoked trout tarte and a perfectly prepared, moist and flavorful loin with divinely crispy skin. Amazing!

Other hits included the presskopf, pigeon, muenster mousse and plum dessert (clafouti meets crème brûlée). And their bread and butter is out of this world.

I liked that the chef focused on ingredients and flavors of the region, but note you’ll get a few less typical flavor profiles (‘saur’ and mustardy) in some dishes - presskopf.

Several things missed IMHO. The initial appetizer underwhelmed, though it was quickly followed by an excellent and visually creative amuse bouche. Of the main courses, I felt the acorn risotto fell flat and was out of balance - far too tomato dominant and really would have benefited from some cheese or cream to tone down the acid.

Overall, a fun night. I...

Ma anche no. Premetto che sono un amante di ristoranti stellati e ne ho visitati veramente tanti, quindi il mio giudizio si base anche sulla comparazione rispetto alle altre esperienze.

Sono stato con mia moglie e mio figlio. Avevo avvisato che mia moglie era celiaca già quando ho prenotato, ma quando siamo arrivati nessuno lo sapeva. Hanno tentato di rimediare portando un pane senza glutine, pessimo, quasi immangiabile.

Poi, l'ambiente: si presenta abbastanza elegante, forse troppo... la conversazione è quasi impossibile perché sembra di violare il silenzio che regna in sala. Può anche piacere, ma a me è sembrato eccessivo. E, magari non ve l'hanno spiegato, ma a cena è meglio avere luci soffuse, non un impianto luce che fa invidia ad uno stadio!

Per ordinare, aspettiamo 14 minuti perché i camerieri, molto gentilmente, ci fanno sapere che verrà lo chef al nostro tavolo. Da uno stellato, mi aspetto velocità e trattamento diverso. E poi: perché lo chef al tavolo a prendere gli ordini? Non ha dato alcun valore aggiunto e si è limitato a chiedere "avete scelto"? Altra nota dolente: per nostro figlio di 5 anni abbiamo dovuto per forza scegliere un piatto dalla carta. Risultato: solo per lui abbiamo speso 48 euro, per un pezzetto di branzino. Ma preparare qualcosa a parte per i bambini (cosa che hanno sempre fatto in tutti gli altri stellati), no?

Finalmente arriva il cibo. Antipasti buoni, degni della stella. Sui secondi, no : sapidità eccessiva dei calamari, data anche dal quintale di nero di seppia nel piatto, cottura sbagliata tale da renderli degni di gomma da masticare. Mia moglie prende la suprema di pollo in due preparazioni. La prima, deliziosa. La seconda, assolutamente sbagliata la cottura : la carne era ancora rossastra in centro e iper gommosa.

Ciliegina sulla torta: dopo 2 ore chiediamo il conto. Ci chiedono se è andato tutto bene e rispondo "migliorabile", per eleganza mia. Comunque, non faccio alcuna lamentela, pago, ed esco. Mi segue lo chef che, al posto che accettare il mio feedback, si mette a discutere. Mi dice che il pollo era cotto a bassa temperatura e dice, in pratica, che sbaglio io. Ecco, bravo chef, hai perso un'occasione preziosa per migliorare.

Ah, mi hanno incartato dei dolcetti perché dovevamo andare. Arriviamo in hotel e li apriamo. NEMMENO UNO SENZA GLUTINE.

Il tutto per oltre 200 euro di conto, senza vino ovviamente.

Continuate così, la stella non vi durerà a...