SÉZANNE — Restaurant in Tokyo

Sezanne: A Culinary Symphony Where France Meets Japan (Three Michelin Stars and Beyond) Sezanne, a shining beacon in Tokyo's glittering culinary landscape, isn't merely a restaurant; it's an experience – a meticulously crafted symphony of flavors where classical French technique dances gracefully with the pristine beauty of Japanese ingredients. Holding three Michelin stars, Sezanne has rightfully earned its place among the world's elite, and a recent visit confirms that its reputation is not just warranted, but truly understated.

The genius of Sezanne lies in its ability to seamlessly blend the rich heritage of French gastronomy with the subtle nuances of Japanese cuisine. This isn't a fusion restaurant in the typical sense; rather, it's a respectful and innovative dialogue between two culinary powerhouses. From the moment you're presented with the 48-month aged Comté cheese gougère, a perfect bite of cheesy, airy delight, you understand you're in for something special. The malted barley sourdough, served with creamy Brittany butter, sets the stage for the exquisite journey ahead.

The menu is a testament to the restaurant's dedication to sourcing the finest Japanese ingredients. The "Bouillabaisse" with saffron from Saga Prefecture is a masterclass in redefining a classic. Instead of the traditional Mediterranean flavors, the saffron lends a delicate, almost floral aroma that elevates the seafood broth to new heights. Similarly, the Shima Ebi from Hokkaido, served with a nage "geleé," showcases the sweetness and pristine quality of the shrimp, perfectly complemented by the subtle, savory jelly.

Other dishes, such as the Crispy Skin "Kinki" from Abashiri, highlight the chef's exceptional skill in marrying French cooking techniques with Japanese ingredients. The perfectly crisp skin of the Kinki contrasts beautifully with the moist, succulent flesh, while the accompanying tsubomina and hamaguri clams add layers of umami and texture. The Komochi Yari Ika from Kyoto, paired with charred shishito peppers and garden basil, offers a delightful combination of flavors and textures, showcasing the freshness and seasonality of the ingredients.

Even seemingly classic French dishes receive a Japanese twist. The duck foie gras, served with soy sauce and dates, is a brilliant example of this. The richness of the foie gras is beautifully balanced by the salty-sweetness of the soy sauce and the caramel notes of the dates, creating a truly unforgettable flavor profile. The commitment to using the best ingredients extends to the desserts, as seen with the Hass avocado ice cream with English cucumber granite and ossetra caviar, which plays with the palate in a beautiful way, by contrasting creamy, fresh and salty flavors.

The "Pate Feuilletée" with bergamot from Kochi Prefecture is another example of the harmonious blend of French technique and Japanese ingredients. The flaky, buttery pastry is infused with the bright, citrusy aroma of bergamot, creating a light and refreshing dessert that is the perfect ending to a remarkable meal.

Beyond the exceptional food, Sezanne provides an impeccable dining experience. The service is attentive and knowledgeable, and the ambiance is elegant and refined. Each course is presented with artistry and precision, further enhancing the overall experience.

Sezanne is more than just a three-Michelin-starred restaurant; it's a testament to the power of culinary innovation and the beauty of cultural exchange. It's a place where French technique meets Japanese artistry, resulting in a dining experience that is both unforgettable and deeply satisfying. For those seeking a truly exceptional culinary adventure, Sezanne is an...

EDIT 2025/02/14: It took some weeks but we were able to get this resolved with Jens the General Manager. We spoke on the phone at length about how this occurred and there was an understanding that the process with the sommelier and how the wine list is presented and wines are suggested would be improved based on this incident. Jens made it right, we appreciate the outreach and resolution here. BE WARNED: SÉZANNE sommelier may casually trick you into $2,000 USD wine bottles without you knowing. Be very careful before saying “ok” to a casual recommendation or your $1k USD pre-fixe dinner date can easily turn into a $4k USD like it did for us. [December 2024 receipt attached]

My wife and I have treated ourselves to many Michelin star restaurants through the world and the years in our 20 years together (we are both around 40). In this time we have no problem dropping $1k+ USD on an amazing multi course meal. So during our Christmas 2024 trip to Tokyo we were excited to book the 70,000 JPY ($445 USD) Christmas prefix.

However when the final bill arrived tonight we were shocked to find a ¥635,916 total. That is a $4,050 USD for our $445 meals + some wine! How did this happen? Is this real?

Turns out the sommelier had recommended a 310,000 JPY (~$2,000 USD!) bottle of wine without our suspicion. In typical fashion for this type of establishment there was no pricing information on the wine menu so we trusted he wasn’t recommending anything crazy. We had been taking his recommendation with barely any words exchanged from the beginning. We just wanted a wine that should pair well with the meal and we assumed he was picking wines priced in line with the $445 pre-fixe. We had casual clothes on and did not mention any special occasion or desire for a special bottle. In any other similar establishment the sommelier would expertly gauge and set expectations and if the wine is 5x the meal, would have given even the slightest indication. But absolutely none was given or implied and we did not notice from the presentation or taste of the wine which was all standard to our previous expectations.

Completely shocked at the check but already running late to catch our evening ferry to Kyushu with how long the 3 hour meal took, we paid the bill and left in a hurry. Analyzing the receipt further now in the cab I see even the single glass pours after the bottle were 18,000 JPY (~$115 USD) each and a 75,405 JPY / $480 USD service charge was added.

At this point reviewing the meal itself is moot. It was good but unremarkable in comparison to some of our favorite Michelin star fine dining restaurants like French Laundry, Eleven Madison, etc except the 4x higher bill. We were expecting maybe $300+ USD in wine charges for 2x $445 USD pre-fix, sure, but $2,500+ USD just in wine charges? We feel robbed and stupid and this meal has put a damper on our trip to Japan.

Doing some further research online it appears SÉZANNE usually offers a wine pairing menu or option but we certainly never received one tonight. We didn’t inquire since they did not bring one up and we assumed getting a bottle would have been the more affordable option. Biggest mistake ever. I’ll not be able to do fine dining again without asking the sommelier if the wine they are very casually recommending will cost a mortgage...

We have dined at more than 200 Michelin restaurants-among them about 100 in Japan. This review is based on how Sezanne fairs with relevant Michelin competitors.

To save viewer’s time, here is our conclusion: above average food for Michelin, elegant dining environment, and god awful service.

We had the special Shanghai crab and white truffle course this week. The food was decent with no major standouts nor flaws, and it has been reviewed plenty in other reviews on Google. I will focus on the problems with their dinning service in my review as it is the primary reason I do not recommend the establishment.

Problems concerning service:

I went to the restroom twice during the meal. Upon return each time, I had to raise my hand high to the waiter and remind them to provide me a napkin. In fact, I had to eat one dish without the napkin. This almost never occurred to me during a Michelin dinner.

Upon finishing the dishes, there were three occasions the dirty plates were left on the table for five mins or more before being taken away. We timed with an iPhone.

There were two parties that night that were either chefs acquaintances or some small time Internet personalities. We were counting the times the waiters visited their tables: over the evening they at least received 30-40% more of the attention, foot traffic, and personal time with the service team compared to our table. If you ignored some of the guests and treated some guests preferentially, my question is: what if I was a Michelin inspector?

Ultimately, all the issues outlined above were due to a severe shortage of staff. There were two sommeliers but clearly not enough waiters for the size of Sezanne’s dinning area. Compounding to the problem, there were no clear delineation of duties required of each personnel. This caused the team work dynamics to fracture. The sommeliers should have provided the waiters some more support we believe.

Specific waiters:

The friendly young Japanese male waiter was the best and extremely hard working, but he couldn’t handle more than 10 tables by himself. He had to run around the entire premise throughout. The darker skinned server with glasses was quiet and did his best.

The Taiwanese girl waiter was the one we had most problem with. She came to our table to twice at the very beginning of the dinner to say hello, but was obviously avoiding us throughout the rest 80% of the evening inexplicably: she never stopped by our table after the third course to chat or talk to us again. However, we saw that she had no trouble spending extreme amounts of time with the two tables of aforementioned celebrity(?) guests, constantly checked on them, frequently returned to their tables after each dish asking for feedbacks. We were able to observe everything above clearly from our seats, and we DID NOT like that.

I truly hope things improve, and I wish chef Daniel best of luck as he deserves a bigger service team so his food can be the true star of the evening without...