Diligência Bar — Restaurant in Coimbra

I wanted to experience Fado music while in Portugal, and particularly in Coimbra, which I understood to have a unique and lively Fado scene. However, I had hoped to avoid the formality that often accompanies performances of traditional styles of music. Also, by the time I was able to make it out on my one night in Coimbra (almost midnight), many of the more popular places, such as A Capella, were already closed or winding down.

So, I made my way to Diligencia, which had received positive mention by Rick Steves and good reviews on TripAdvisor. I was not disappointed.

When I arrived, the place seemed dead. There were a total of 4 people inside, a couple sitting at a table and 2 guys behind the bar... and a couple of instruments sitting unplayed. I asked the bartender if they were still open, and he said "Yes, of course." I then asked if there was more music that night, to which he responded "Yes, of course... just a short break."

So, I ordered a beer, and even though they only had one tap (Estrella, I believe), the bartender offered from a selection of bottles of "artisanal" beers. I was hot from the walk to the bar (the night was warmer than I anticipated), so I opted for the draft beer, which was pleasantly cold.

After sitting silently sipping on my beer for a while, a gentleman began playing guitar and singing... it was simple, beautiful, and passionate. I didn't understand a word, but I quite enjoyed it. He played a few songs, when another older gentleman showed up to the bar who took the guitar, while the original musician picked up the fado mandolin (I don't know the actual name of this instrument), and they played together, working out the songs as they went along. It had that energy that only comes from people playing music they love unrehearsed. Eventually a third gentleman came along, and they all took turns singing and playing the various instruments, while occasionally the small audience that had come along joined in.

Somewhere in the middle of all of this, I finished my beer and was now craving something more than a cold lager, so I made my way to the bartender and inquired about the artisanal selection. I opted for a belgian-style ale brewed locally in Coimbra. It was quite tasty. The bartender also struck up a conversation with me. His English was excellent, and he was curious about Los Angeles (my hometown) and he gave me some tips for Coimbra and our travels south towards Lisbon.

My night at Diligencia was the kind of experience I most crave from traveling... something unique, local, fun, and beautiful... and an opportunity to meet friendly people from...

Just came back from an amazing night at Bar Diligencia. On a Monday evening in April we went down what appeared to be deserted narrow streets after other reviews and guidebooks led us here. We arrived around 9 pm, the place was empty but the bartender friendly and kind. He explained the music started around 9:30 (may have been closer to 10), we ordered drinks and settled in for a wonderful mix of fado, traditional and modern. Luís Travassos was the artist playing - despite the small crowd, he played with intensity, interacted with us, and guided us through our own emotions via music and voice. The venue is intimate and the acoustics are great. Highly recommend for music/fado in Coimbra! Shoutout also to the bartender who introduced...

My Lovely Lady Erin found this place for us to try in Coimbra. It is down a back alley and was completely worth the search.

The owners are amazingly lovely. We were there with one other couple, which we befriended. As written elsewhere, the drinks were fabulous and we too, enjoyed the traditional liquor.

About halfway through our amazing dinner, a wonderful Fado performer (and friends of the Jorge, the owner/bartender) came in and played the most enjoyable Fado.

The food was fantastic, the environment was rustic, dark, and just what we were looking for. If you are EVER in Coimbra, go check out Diligência Bar and if you have a great Cheese Cake recipe, the owner Jorge will gladly...