Paco Roncero Restaurante — Restaurant in Madrid

Over the past ten years, we’ve frequented many Michelin-starred establishments. During last year visit to Madrid, our dining experiences included Ramón Freixa, Smoked Room, OSA, and Cebo. This time, in our recent visit, we dined at Coque, Desde 1911, Deessa and Paco Roncero.

FOOD The affirmation menu is divided into several “acts". The opening acts featured some of the most delicious and intriguing food we’ve ever had. The flavors progressively improved, which was surprising and delightful, especially considering it started on such a high note. However, in a restaurant like this, consistency is key, and one bad dish can harm the experience—let alone several.

Dinner took a turn for the worse with the “Vegetable Patch,” which was overwhelmed by heavy cauliflower purée that we couldn’t finish. The “Blancmange, Eggplants and Kaki Persimmon” was bland, and the biggest disappointment was the “Black Butter Sole Fish,” which had an unpleasant texture and a surprisingly broken sauce. The “Oxtail Wellington with Daikon, Apple, and Currant Salad” was a highlight—a true delight. It’s rare to be served Wellington, and this one was executed beautifully. However, we were surprised to be served only half a portion while other single diners received full portions, which left us feeling uneasy. The experience reached a low point when we discovered a hair in one of our dishes. After taking it back to the kitchen, the staff returned 10 minutes later to apologize and asked if we wanted a replacement, which we declined. We then waited another 10 minutes for the next course which was inedible to us. By then, we had lost our appetite entirely.

SERVICE Our server brought professionalism, humor, and warmth, which truly elevated the dining experience.

The chef visited every table, asking for feedback, and acknowledged the returned sole, offering an explanation for why we likely didn’t enjoy it. However, he made no mention of the hair, which felt like a significant oversight in an already faltering experience.

While they removed the charge for the wine we ordered, there was no prior acknowledgment or explanation, leaving that aspect feeling unresolved and somewhat impersonal.

WINE SERVICE The wine service was efficient and remarkably quick. Before I could fully describe my preferences, the sommelier swiftly provided a spot-on pairing. While the speed was impressive, the experience lacked interaction and hospitality, making it the least engaging pairing I’ve ever had.

AMBIANCE The restaurant offered an intimate atmosphere, providing a sense of comfort and privacy that we appreciated. However, a major drawback for us was its location within a casino. Upon arriving 10 minutes early, we were told to return later instead of being seated inside while waiting, which felt unsettling. The unwelcoming nature of this interaction, coupled with the casino environment outside the restaurant, detracted significantly from the overall experience and left a lasting negative impression.

VALUE FOR MONEY If we set aside the missteps in the food, the restaurant does offer good value for money overall. It's clear that certain aspects of the experience stand out positively and contribute to its merit. However, addressing those culinary inconsistencies could elevate it further.

VERDICT The first half of the meal at Paco Roncero was exceptional—so much so that I was already envisioning a return visit. However, the lack of consistency became glaring and ultimately led to disappointment. The hair incident was a critical misstep, and had it been the only issue—and handled with greater accountability—Paco Roncero might still have earned a five-star rating. Unfortunately, with half of the meal falling short, the overall experience was undermined.

Regrettably, while I had high hopes initially, Paco Roncero lands at a three-star rating in my assessment. This means I’d be cautious about considering a revisit and hesitant to recommend it. Even if I do, it would not be at the top of my list of...

It’s always a bit difficult to describe experiences like these and fit them within a 5-star system, because it lacks depth.

The restaurant is located inside the Casino de Madrid building, which is fascinatingly fancy. You then get in a tiny elevator which lifts you to the restaurant itself. You of course don’t have to touch any doors or buttons, someone will do that for you after they take your coat downstairs.

The place was empty when I got there (8 pm, apparently Spaniards enjoy later dinners), which made me feel weirdly observed as I ate 😂 I While eating the very first appetizer, I spilled some food all over my pants (it was these little olive thingies that exploded as soon as you touched them, and I grabbed one the wrong way). Instantly someone brought more napkins, a towel and some hot soda solution to help me clean my clothes. It’s like they expect you to be clumsy and are adequately prepared.

The food is beautifully presented, and although the menu is brief and there isn’t in-depth explanation of dishes like in similar places I’ve been to, the food speaks for itself. Tasteful combinations of flavor and texture, better appreciated by chewing slowly and with closed eyes.

One thing that kind of displeased me, and was different from other Michelin-starred restaurants I’ve been to, is that the interval between dishes and especially wine glasses was kinda small. You can’t expect me to drink like 7 glasses of wine that fast, come on guys 😂😂 I ended up getting tipsy. The service was otherwise excellent, refilling my beverages at appropriate times and stopping by to chat occasionally and ensure I was having a good time. The price was a bit lower than equivalent places in Munich, so I thought it was ok for what you get (approx 240 with wine pairing).

A worthy experience for gastronomy lovers, “likers” or...

I really was looking forward to ending our family trip to Spain on a high note, and unfortunately Paco Roncero disappointed. I was on the fence about whether to rate this 3 or 4 stars, but compared to all our experiences and the price paid, this meal deserves a mid rating at best.

Atmosphere: starting with the only highlight - the venue is a private club straight out of a Bond film. If you’re looking to impress, can’t go wrong with this choice.

Food: the set menu started off interesting and unraveled gradually. The starter courses were delightful though hints of over-tinkering began during with an olive course that felt like more time was placed on presentation than taste. The vegetable mains were visually appealing but lacked balance - far too much cream to dig through for the “veggie forest” and not really sure what we were supposed to enjoy with the almond broth dish with minimal salt. By the time our group made it the end, it had felt more like a tour of whimsical presentation than a well-composed meal. Deserts were forgettable- with the black garlic ice cream an odd choice to end the meal with.

Service: semi-formal service as would be expected for this type of venue, though inexplicably after our main course there was a strange pause and a change in wait staff (not sure if our original team...