One of South Florida's most well-respected restaurants hides behind a nondescript single door, and a sheer white curtain. NAOE, a natural Japanese cuisine hideaway, continues to receive high rankings and accolades without any signs of slowing down. And yet, “Where is that?” is still a question I often get. Two words, Miami: Brickell Key.
Who is chef Kevin Cory? The heart and soul of NAOE, that's who. His path to success began at age 19, under the tutelage of Kyoto-based, executive chef, Nobuo Kase. Several years later, Cory traveled to Toyama, Japan where his highly disciplined uncle, Yasushi Naoe, became his next mentor. Once back in Miami, he worked passionately to prove himself while at a newly remodeled Siam River Sushi Bar. By 2004, the restaurant picked up steam under his reign. NAOE finally opened later in 2009, after years of preparation.
Honored with the prestigious Five-Star award by the Forbes Travel Guide year after year, and topping every Miami must-visit omakase list (as well as many of mine here, here, and here), this tiny kingdom deserves all the attention it receives. And more.
The Chef's Choice menu, $220 per person exclusive of tip and tax, is available twice nightly for only eight guests. Reservations are listed only on the Yelp app/website for either a 6:30 pm or 9:30 pm spot. Diners are adviced to be punctual and to block out three hours to complete the NAOE journey. Don't be surprised if you are greeted by name upon arrival. The impressive attention to detail by the hostess continues throughout dinner with prompt water refills, drink orders, napkin replacement, and even course-by-course descriptions. Minimalistic modern interior design and classical music provide an immaculate and harmonious backdrop to the royal menu.
For the best view and to better appreciate the entire process, I suggest requesting counter seats upon reserving. With only one assistant in the kitchen and an enviable intense focus, chef Cory works diligently to execute each course using flawless precision. He does not stop to interact with the guests much, but instead lets his work speak for himself. Despite the mounting awards and mentions NAOE receives, his grace, humbleness, and contagious serenity come across loud and clear.
The adventure usually begins with a sophisticated Shokado Bento Box and continues with a nigiri sushi progression. The sea treasures will vary per visit, but will undoubtedly include a mix of the local, traditional, and obscure: Madai, Shigoku (ultimate) Oyster, Maine Lobster, Jyo-Kinmedai, Lionfish Kōjizuke, Karasumi, Sea Cucumber Innards, Sea Urchin Roe, and Unagi, to name a few. The restaurant's tagline, "It's not fresh, it's alive," explains the concept further. Seafood is sourced locally and often also shipped overnight from Japan. My last two visits included a Mirugai-Geoduck, showcased tableside alive at first, and then gingerly prepared right before our very eyes. Alive and fresh? Check!
Complementing dinner, you can expect an endless selection of organic vegetable, rice, freshly-grated wasabi root, and even shoyu and sake from chef Kevin Cory's family brewery, which dates back to the 1800s.
Dessert concludes with a fun variety of sweets, including the NAOE signature ice cream and its guess-the-secret-ingredient game. Yes, I know the answer. No, I won't ruin the fun by telling you.
To be honest, by now I'd love to say my palate has already reached a level that can fully grasp the intensity of everything I have ever tried at NAOE. Of course, I am familiar with most courses. But others are a leap of faith in which I am a curious, willing, and enthusiastic participant. A trip to Japan currently tops my bucket list. In the meantime, I feel incredibly fortunate that we, Miamians, have chef Kevin Cory here. I welcome the challenge and lesson, one bite at a time. Nothing...
Read moreI returned back after many years. I found the food to be below average. They also push expensive sake that is not worth the value. Overall and I'm sorry to say, I have no reason to return again.
Original Review - 2017
I have no doubt this is one of the best small-table Omakase style restaurants within a thousand miles of Miami. I am from Manhattan so unfortunately I need to judge it based on what I'm accustom. First off, the price was comparable to high-end Omakase restaurants in Manhattan so they are just asking to be held to that standard.
It's always fun to eat at a restaurant with an open kitchen, at NAOE the kitchen was amazingly clean, but just not that appetizing in appearance. Watching the Chef cook was also not that interesting, placing delicious fish under a salamander oven to finish and putting temperature probes into other items did not convey the mastery the Chef has obviously obtained. Much of the preparation was done in a private smaller kitchen so I did not see the point of the kitchen on display. The area for preparing sushi was just a small cutting board.
The food itself was delicious and very fresh. The bento box was a nice change from an all sushi presentation, but the squash miso soup was lacking in flavor and balance, and the beet and grain cake seemed uninspired and plain. Everything else in the bento box was truly amazing.
All of the sushi bites they served were outstanding, the rice was warm and perfectly seasoned. To my dismay we were only served 5 bites of sushi in a 12 course Omakase with 2 desert courses. That was very disappointing to me. The uni from Hokkaido was the star of the show. It was explained that it was a special kind that is not packaged with preservatives but rather with sea water and hence more expensive and harder to acquire. The remaining 4 bites of fish were delicious, but I so wanted to be impressed by the variety, rarity and preparation of the fish and the restaurant did not deliver. There were also no hand rolls or any type of small bite that is composed of fish, rice, and seaweed. Seaweed is another way (after rice and fish) I judge a sushi chef and restaurant.
The deserts were very good and really showcased the creativity and culinary skill of the Chef. The staff at the restaurant were very educated on the food and really nice to talk with while we ate. The restaurant is very much in the upper echelon of sushi restaurants, but needs minor improvements to be truly great. Perhaps we will try it again when we go to Miami next if they don't take offense to my review. I very much respect what they...
Read moreNaoe is the unexpecting and surprising place you'll ever enter.The doors are unmarked, and the location itself is incognito. However, the subtle location and decor is but an image that will soon leave your mind. You will feel as if you've been friends forever when first greeted by the Chef's wife Wendy. Being led your seats (hopefully the sushi bar) you'll notice that your menus are personalized. Your course for the evening, already being chosen for you by the chef, is one of the unique things about Naoe. You should trust everything the Chef makes, as you'll most certainly enjoy it when you eat it. Unfortunately I cannot talk about the food, as the Chef resets the menu each evening according to whatever ingredients were flown in from Japan that morning. But if you're able to sit at the Sushi Bar, chat a little with the Chef, he is incredibly friendly and knowledgeable. Don't hesitate to talk to his wife Wendy either. She is just as much the experience as watching the Chef prepare the Sushi. Set aside around 3 hours for the meal. After the Bento Box and 8 pieces are served, you will most definitely want to order a la carte. Everything that is served is either caught earlier that morning, or still alive. It will make one of the most memorable dining experiences you will ever have, and possibly the greatest meal you have ever eaten. Unfortunately rating Naoe with three Excellents' does not do it justice. It is one of the greatest Sushi establishments in the country, and most certainly the greatest...
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