The Policeman — Attraction in Budapest

The Fat Policeman statue in downtown Budapest, on Zrínyi Street, is an unintentional masterpiece of political satire. Created by András Illyés in 2008, the sculpture depicts a turn-of-the-century Hungarian policeman with a sizable belly, which tourists enthusiastically rub as a lucky charm. After all, what better way to symbolize "law and order" than a cop who could easily pass as a lookalike for Németh Szilárd or Viktor Orbán excelling at a pork-and-pálinka feast?

But beneath the humorous surface, this statue is a chilling tribute to the long and "glorious" tradition of Hungarian law enforcement—if we consider that tradition to be the service of oppression. The police forces of the Dualist era and later the Horthy regime were not just upholders of the law but enforcers of the regime’s will: silencing dissent, persecuting minorities, and ensuring that power remained in the "right" hands. Jump ahead a century, and—surprise!—not much has changed.

Today, the Hungarian police still serve power: protecting corrupt politicians from protesters, harassing society’s marginalized, and conveniently turning a blind eye when "important" people break the rules. The Fat Policeman, with his immovable stance and unwavering smile, perfectly embodies this spirit—always present, but only acting selectively. It’s authority without justice, offering only the illusion of security.

So go ahead and rub his belly for luck. In a country where the police serve a kleptocratic regime instead of its citizens, you’re going to need all the luck you can get.

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Budapest is a city that loves a good story, and nowhere is that more evident than in its wonderfully quirky street statues! While you'll find plenty of solemn heroes and historic figures, one bronze character stands out for his sheer, good-natured charm: the "Fat Policeman".

The statue depicts a jovial officer in a charming, old-fashioned Hungarian uniform, complete with a helmet and a splendidly twirly moustache. The sculptor, László Tóth, reportedly modeled the character after his own grandfather, a man who clearly appreciated the savoury delights of hearty Hungarian cuisine, judging by the policeman's impressively round figure! It's comforting to know that this statue is built based on a real person and not a fictional character!

The statue isn't just a picturesque photo op; it's a bonafide good luck charm! Tourists and locals alike flock to him, and you'll immediately notice one particular spot that’s been polished to a brilliant gold: his big, protruding belly.

Legend has it that if you rub his belly, you will be blessed with good fortune. Some specifically say the rub brings good luck in love, while others claim it ensures you'll return to Budapest, a guarantee we're all happy to secure!

There is, however, a special way to do it: some say if you rub your hands counter-clockwise on his stomach you will have good luck. Go on, give his belly a rub, you never know what good fortune...

The monument to the policeman, erected in Budapest in 2008, has already become a symbol of dedication for both locals and city guests, myself included. Situated in the Fifth District at the intersection of two streets, it stands tall amidst the cobblestone pavement, captivating attention with its majestic presence. This sculptural monument, dedicated to the guardian of law, is officially known as the Guardian of Order. Crafted from bronze, it intricately recreates the impressive details of the form and parameters of policemen from the past century. The guard's head is protected by a pointed helmet, while a curved saber hangs from his belt. Of particular note is the protruding belly of the policeman, symbolizing the solidity and seriousness required for such a position.This monument not only reflects the historical legacy of the police force but also serves as a reminder of the importance and significance of their service to society. Standing before it, I couldn't help but admire its grandeur and the symbolic significance it holds for the city of Budapest and...