Livraria Lello — Attraction in Porto

Beautiful place. However the ticket booking process was very difficult. Booked 6 tickets for a week later. An hour after paying and receiving confirmation I received another email that one of my tickets had been moved to the next day (4th March 2024). I emailed back straight away asking why this had been done and that I we wouldn’t be able to attend then, and it just simply wasn’t the day I booked and paid for. I received an email on the 4th in the afternoon saying I would have to request a refund for that ticket and book it another day. I said that this was impossible as by the time they had replied, the slot they had moved me to had passed. I received no further reply. We went today (9th March) and when we scanned our tickets at the door they said they weren’t for that day. I explain the situation and showed them the emails and they said there was nothing they could do and if I wanted to go in, I would have to forfeit the €8 voucher which the ticket was valid for. I let it go as we were a group of 6 and we really wanted to see the place.

The next issue was the severe overcrowding, and this is no exaggeration. I understand this is a very popular place to visit in Porto, however the people issuing the tickets are surely aware that the library is not very big and should absolutely limit the amount of tickets available for each time slot. There was hardly any room to move, let alone look at the books. This made it very overwhelming and took away from the whole experience. Trying to go up the famous stairs was such a struggle and took a very long time due to the sheer amount of people, and the overcrowding was the same, if not worse on the upper floor. We decided to leave after a short amount of time due to this issue so I would recommend trying to go very early in the morning to avoid the crowds. I just wish there was more care for the visitors rather than just trying to cram as people in as possible in order to sell tickets. And for this reason we left without purchasing any books as we had no peace to browse and choose. Books were falling on the floor and we were being pushed around the whole time due to the crowding. Also a member of staff had to try and intervene due to a certain group being so loud and obnoxious on the staircase, which was also not pleasant. Would definitely not recommend for people who are not good with big crowds and want a peaceful experience...

Livraria Lello: A Beautiful Bookstore with a Price of Admission (and a Crowd)

Livraria Lello in Porto is undeniably a "must-see" in a very specific, novelty kind of way. Like many others, my curiosity was piqued by the sight of people willingly queuing in the rain and shelling out 10 euros just to enter a bookstore. What could possibly warrant such dedication?

The alleged connection to J.K. Rowling and the inspiration for the moving staircases in the Harry Potter series is a significant draw, and stepping inside, it's easy to see why that legend persists. The iconic spiral staircase is truly breathtaking – a swirling masterpiece of wood and crimson that commands attention. The entire interior is beautiful, with intricate details, stained glass, and towering shelves packed with books. It's a feast for the eyes and certainly evokes a sense of old-world charm and literary magic.

However, the popularity comes at a cost – literally and figuratively. Even with the staggered entry system, where groups are allowed in every 15 minutes, the bookstore felt overwhelmingly crowded. Navigating the aisles and trying to appreciate the architecture while jostling past other visitors was a challenge. While the organization was commendable in managing the flow of people, it didn't quite alleviate the feeling of being packed in. The 10-euro entrance fee, thankfully, is applicable towards the purchase of any book (though not merchandise). So, in a way, you're paying for the experience and getting a discount on a souvenir. I ended up purchasing a travel guide about Portugal, which felt like a fitting memento of my visit.

One can't help but wonder about the experience for returning customers. Having to stand in line and pay an entrance fee every time you want to browse for a new read seems a bit cumbersome. I suppose this system effectively weeds out casual window shoppers, ensuring that those who enter are more likely to make a purchase. Overall, Livraria Lello is a visually stunning bookstore with a compelling story and a tangible connection to literary history. It's worth visiting for its unique beauty and the novelty of the experience. Just be prepared for the crowds and the entrance fee. Go for the spectacle, soak in the atmosphere, and maybe even pick up a book – but be aware that it's more of a curated tourist attraction than a quiet, leisurely...

I bought the platinum ticket (50 euro) which gave me access to the Gemma room. This is the "jewel" room where they store rare, first editions and signed copies of special books. First edition of Alice in Wonderland, signed first edition of The Picture of Dorian Gray, signed edition of The Little Prince and so on. An expert gives you a tour of the place and narrates the history of the bookstore and highlights the importance of rare books stored here. I was so happy our tour guide was Beatriz Marinho, who wasn't just knowledgeable about the bookstore, but shared the passion for books. I really enjoyed her peppering her narrations with her own perspective on books and authors.

The visit to the Gemma room was totally worth the 50euro I paid, but I could also buy books worth this amount against the ticket. They have special pocket sized editions of many classics like Pride and Prejudice, Romeo and Juliet, The Little Prince, The Picture of Dorian Gray and so on. These are really stunning editions with pages having golden edges. They are collectibles for sure. I spent close to two hours in the Gemma room and wasn't satisfied.

I see many people complaining about the bookstore charging an entry fee (10 euros) as they expect entry to a bookstore to be free. In the same breath, they also complain that despite buying a timed ticket, they need to wait in the queue to be let inside. Can you imagine how overcrowded the bookstore would be if the entry was free? And how does the bookstore do business if people walk in for free, just take pictures and leave without buying a book? Moreover the 10euro is redeemable. You buy a book worth that much and your entry is practically free. The bookstore is very transparent about the fee and how one can redeem this voucher. If you are still bitter about paying an entry fee, please do us book lovers a favor and don't visit.

This bookstore claims to be the most beautiful bookstore in the world. I wouldn't question that claim but argue that while the building and the interiors are stunning, the real beauty lies in the treasure of books it holds.

Beatriz, thank you for a memorable visit. This will stay with me for...