Joyland, Charleston SC – A Whimsical Smash Burger Joint That Can’t Seem to Stick the Landing
When Joyland first opened its doors in downtown Charleston, the buzz was palpable. With its pop art flair, playful neon palette, and bold promise of reinventing the smash burger, the concept had all the ingredients to become a cult favorite. Unfortunately, after two visits months apart, Joyland feels less like a culinary carnival and more like a case of style over substance.
My first visit came on opening day, a mistake in hindsight. An hour-long wait in line ended with the disappointing news that nearly the entire menu was sold out. Only the flagship “Crustburger” remained. The burger itself was… fine. A seared crust offered a bit of intrigue, and while the flavor hinted at potential, the overall experience was dulled by the chaos of the kitchen and an air of unpreparedness. I chalked it up to growing pains and resolved to return.
Months later, I tried again, this time opting for takeout in hopes of bypassing the wait and seeing the restaurant at full operational strength. I ordered a spread: the Crustburger, Joystick (a chicken skewer), curly fries, and a hand pie.
The results were mixed, and mostly disappointing. The curly fries were the sole standout, impeccably crisp, generously seasoned, and portioned with care. It was the only item that truly lived up to the promise of comfort food done right.
The Crustburger had regressed since my first visit. The patty was dry, the once-bold sear now flat, and the bun tasted stale, a cardinal sin in a burger joint where bread and beef are the entire show. The Joystick, while a clever name, arrived undercooked in the center — an unsettling and inexcusable flaw, especially for poultry.
As for the hand pie, a strawberry-and-cheesecake hybrid, it offered more nostalgia than nuance. Resembling a gas station snack or a dressed-up McDonald’s apple pie, it lacked the freshness and texture that would justify its boutique pricing. It was overly sweet and forgettable.
Even the small things added up: I was charged extra for ranch and never received it. Not a dealbreaker, but emblematic of a kitchen and front-of-house team still struggling with consistency and quality control.
Joyland has undeniable charm. The interior is a dopamine rush of good vibes, a place you want to root for. But charming decor and clever names aren’t enough when the food doesn’t deliver. Charleston diners are discerning, and in a city filled with world-class comfort food, even smash burgers have to meet a higher standard.
Joyland doesn’t need a menu overhaul or a brand reinvention, just tighter execution, better consistency, and a commitment to backing up its bold personality with equally bold flavors. There’s still time to turn things around. But for now, Joyland remains more potential...
Read moreSean Brock is a renowned chef, I loved Husk when he ran it, and I’ve been hearing about Joyland and its crustburger for a long time (including seeing it featured in cooking magazines). I’ve been waiting to try it for several months and was excited to have the opportunity today.
Walking into the restaurant immediately worried me. It’s dark and dingy, garbage was on the floors, there were empty display cases, and when we got to the counter there was a tub of congealed cheese sitting on it. I still trusted Chef Brock so we ordered burgers and fries; we were told they were out of crinkle-cut fries and the manager had just run to the store to get more (so the fries are from Walmart?) so we agreed to curly fries. We got our drinks but they were out of straws (they eventually found their stash) and one of the napkin dispensers was empty.
The food was brought to our table by a brusque though attentive server and the burgers were mediocre. The crustburger had good texture but salt was the predominant flavor. My wife’s deluxe burger was better but not as good as 5 Guys, Shake Shack, or some local favorites (notably Triangle Char and Bar). The curly fries—also from Walmart?—were the definition of fine. Certainly not what I expect from a chef like Brock.
I’m curious what Brock’s role is in the restaurant now. Does he check on it? Does he do any quality control? I would imagine he’d be horrified walking into a dirty dingy depressing establishment with mediocre food that sells his cookbooks and highlights his connection to the restaurant. But maybe he doesn’t care?
Joyland?...
Read moreMan was made for Joy & Woe.
This line from Blake was all I could think of as I sat waiting for my fried chicken biscuit this morning. An interminable wait, one made worse by the high-pitched alarm piercing what little cognition I possessed after a long bout of drinking the previous day. Only poetry could carry me through this purgative flame.
I do not want to make a pun--I should not! Google Reviews are a serious matter. Without them where would the layman find a place to go, something to do? He could not find it at the Post & Courier, as it is secured only for those willing to pay the fee to read their pedestrian opinions.
So I will be serious. After the conclusion of my third trip to Joyland, I have surmised it is in need of an overhaul. The food is fine--sure, it is served more as a heap than as a meal, but I am fond of simplicity. The taste is fine, it is well-prepared. Joyland achieves what it intends. But more oversight is needed of this establishment. There is a profound indifference expressed towards the guests and the restaurant itself.
I ordered To-Go to save on dishes and cleanup--I am a Conscientious Consumer. Outside, I had the view either of the morbid Holocaust Memorial in Marion Square or the mumbling homeless woman in the alley. If I sat indoors, I would be subjected to the screech of the alarm.
I am giving four stars overall--three for food quality and another for the proprietor being a fellow Virginian, one I support and consider a talent in the Food & Bev industry.
I do want Joyland to succeed. It is a...
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