Il Carpaccio — Restaurant in Paris

#121 in the trying every Michelin Star in Paris under a year. This one is amongst the new crop that was awarded in March. Italy with affection and some class What’s interesting here? First we now have two Italian with a star in town (and half if you add George because of it’s chef), with Armani. One on each bank of the river. But that’s a trivia, it’s not what’s really interesting here. So there are two things. First, there’s a certain class in this restaurant. It’s not overwhelming luxury, it’s a very specific mix of style, both Italian and French, but it’s very refreshing and a bit playful. I guess the coffee cups sum it up nicely. They are elegant and rightly balanced. They have a “silver” coating that could give them a “design” style. But actually, they are reflecting the plate, turning the cups into Italian monuments. It’s the thing here, it’s not necessarily Italian, but everything is evocative. But there’s some emotion also. For instance when you take the Paccheri (pasta), you’ll have the chef performing his craft on a “guéridon” (rolling table). You could say it’s more about the “class” to have this kind of service (that I personally love). But watching him, it made me realize that there also was an emotional side. Their dishes are always a bit pleasing. They always try to bring some nostalgia for their Italy. Of course, on top of that they bring their own expressions but they also bring you their Italy. The crowd was business and international. It can be a great place for a romantic dinner.

It does deserve its star, and I’m pretty sure it’s going to be a solid one that I’ll...

Truly exceptional lunch at Carpaccio today. First time I had eaten there, expected the usual global impersonal fancy hotel fare but had read great things about the new dynamic duo of chefs. In fact, my guests and I were treated to a truly outstanding and memorable culinary experience, matched only by the expert wine pairings by the amazing wine director Clément Emery. I couldn’t believe how young he was in relation to his experience and knowledge, it was a joy to speak with him. From the divine focaccia and polenta crisps though the truffle-clad carpaccio, arresting raw shrimp risotto, tender lamb chops and exquisitely tasty quail, there was not a false note, and the pairing with different cuvées of Chene Bleu wine was pitch-perfect. The waitstaff, also very young and mostly Italian, could not have been more attentive, professional and effortlessly friendly. Can’t wait to come back with my husband for our 25th anniversary. The whole thing was such a class...

The service was impeccable, staff is always courteous and attentive, but unfortunately the food falls short. Italian cuisine is world famous for simple Mediterranean flavors, new style Italian cuisine destroys and badly manipulates the flavors. All the dishes we ate were tepid and room temperature instead of coming hot.

Their artichoke tart entree was unfortunately tasteless, despite artichoke being an Italian staple. Their famous ravioli stuffed with smoked buffala cheese and chestnuts with a truffle sauce prepared in an aged Parmesan wheel is an unfortunate fail. Despite being super heavy and rich, there is absolutely no purpose in preparing the ravioli in the cheese as they don’t flambé it or add cream or cognac to it- it’s just put there to grab some grated cheese that could easily have been shaved on top of the dish- without letting it get cold.

I highly recommend a return to traditional dishes, sometimes there is no need to manipulate...