Atelier Crenn — Restaurant in San Francisco

Two friends and I made a New Year’s resolution to eat at Atelier Crenn, and we did it! Who says no one keeps resolutions? Alas, we were all disappointed by the experience, especially for the price. Let me (re)count the ways…

The three of us were seated around one edge of an enormous table that could have cozily fit six diners. It looked like this is the restaurant’s standard 4-top – there was a party of four next to us at the same size table -- and maybe the tables are so big in order to give the servers space to stand right at the table as they describe each course, because the room is so loud that we couldn’t have heard anything if they’d been standing further away. It was so loud that the three of us couldn’t carry on a conversation. Lucky for me I was seated in the middle, so I could lean toward one friend to talk, then lean toward the other to talk, then…you get the picture. I had to pass messages between the other two all night.

Service started slowly and never found a rhythm. We’re two lightweight drinkers and one sommelier who definitely wanted a wine pairing with his meal, so much so that he asked three or four times about the pairing before the servers got around to explaining the options. Cripes, even I was thirsty by then! It took me days to realize why there had been a delay: Atelier Crenn does not include a (fairly standard for fine dining) first glass of champagne in the wine pairing; it’s an extra $40 for the bubbly. The high-end wine pairing, which my sommelier friend did order, costs $625 and does not include champagne – or anything – with the first three courses. Srsly.

From then on, food came to us intermittently. There were several slow gaps when the three of us were sitting staring at an empty table after trying but failing to be able to carry on a conversation. Glasses were frequently empty. Some of the courses were really delightful, particularly the two early oyster dishes and the onion soup, but some of the presentation verged on silly, like the ceramic beet ceremoniously placed on the table while we ate a beet course, and other courses just didn’t stand out. Almost as a dare, one of us had the nerve to ask the servers if they had any hot sauce in the kitchen. They did, and excitedly brought it to our table, but it…wasn’t hot.

I should say something complimentary now, so here goes: after glasses of champagne, we two lightweights shared a reasonably-priced, good half-bottle of wine that lasted us through the rest of the meal.

There were some other small hitches. A server told us he didn’t know something because it was his second day, which I’m told is Not. Done. in fine dining. When asked if we wanted to add shaved truffles to a dish, for $40 more per person, I said I didn’t love truffles that much and the kitchen…then took all the truffles out of my portion of that course. I didn’t say I didn’t like them, just that I didn’t like them enough to pay the supplement. Sheesh.

Finally, the dining room quieted down when we were the last table left seated. Hey, there was music playing! Had it been playing all night? We didn’t know! There’s a highly-touted backstage tour offered as you’re routed into the next-door bar for dessert, but the kitchen was already closed and empty as we tromped around it with nothing to see for a confusing minute. The desserts were not exceptional.

Overall, Atelier Crenn did not meet expectations on any level. At $400+ per person per meal, we didn’t expect the service glitches, the challenging ambiance, and the lackluster meal we experienced. And frankly, we felt a bit nickel-and-dimed, with extra charges for champagne, truffles, and even espresso.

If you’re like my friends and me, you’re gonna go anyway, because of the restaurant’s reputation, to be able to say you’ve been there, and to see if anything I wrote hit the mark. And I don’t begrudge you that, but do consider...

Atelier Crenn is truly special. It is a one of a kind experience where you journey through a world of hearty flavors that have been impressed in Chef Crenn's memories. The 14 course pescatarian meal unapologetically whisks you from the deep ocean to the tip of a wild flower growing in the fields of France, from bitter sweet chips of chocolate to popping escargo eggs. It is difficult to explain this journey with words. This isn't just a "better" version of a Michelin 1-star restaurant. It is at a completely different level. The 3-stars awarded goes to not a meal, but an experience that awakens all your senses.

We got lucky as a friend of mine passed on his reservation due to unforeseen circumstances. As well known, you have to make reservations well ahead of time (2~3 months) and the slots open up on a particular day where supposedly you have to jump on it within hours. Given I had never succeeded in this process, I welcomed the serendipitous opportunity to dine Atelier Crenn.

Before I reminisce the food, just want to mention that the staff is extremely friendly, courteous, and provide you a personalized evening. There is no dedicated server, but rather the entire staff work like a single concierge and a guide throughout your journey. How they pull this off is almost a mystery. It almost feels like you're being served by no fewer than 20 staff members.

Course 1 - Kir Breton - it literally explodes in your mouth. A fresh sea wave splashing throughout your body. A perfect summer explosion.

Course 2 - Geoduck - from a mystic sea fog awaits a smokey tasteful wrap that gently emanates through your pallet

Course 3 - Oyster & Rose - a frozen rose shell counter balances the sea scent of the oyster and refreshens your senses

Course 4 - Griller Oyster - the taro balls support the texture of the oyster with a magical ice cream that bonds the two

Course 5 - Leek Tart - this is pure magic made from leek and how the flavor is condensed into the fried leek skin chip

Course 6 - Spot Prawn - minced prawn ceviche that is sprinkled with sea goodness, taste, and smell and that broth...

Course 7 - Tomato 4.0 - you will literally feel like you are inside the freshest tomato in the world, both inside out

Course 8 - Onion & White Pearl - onion ice cream and lightly grilled petals prepare you to embrace the intense onion soup with cheese

Course 9 - Brioche - a condensation of butter scent and flavor packed into a bread like no other with sweet pea cream on the side

Course 10 - Abalone - perfectly grilled tucked under a lettuce crisp with creme that accents the sweetness of the abalone

Course 11 - Trout - the flavor of the fish is condensed into a mousse form giving a unique sensation, topped with ikura bring you back to reality

Course 12 - Boho Belle Salad - the lettuce is used to balance the thick cream and cheese and to provide a balanced texture

Course 13 - Daisy Flower - the petals are made with lightly sweet merengue while the intense orange sorbet takes you to another place

Course 14 - Honey-Verbena Waffle - this honey comb shaped waffle is simply magical, held together with lemon zest cream

Course 15 - Avocado Toast - this is pure genius where the looks of the dessert deceives you, whisks you into heaven, and then back

Even as I write this review, I realize how inadequate it is to describe something that cannot be compared. My mind and senses remember it better and...

Dominique Crenn is one bad-ass lady. She’s breaking barriers as a world-renowned female chef while being a mother, and she’s incredibly down-to-earth and personable!

Chef Crenn’s avant garde style is often described as whimsical. With this type of creativity, sometimes it clicks and sometimes it doesn’t. While my first experience three years ago was absolutely lovely visually, the flavors just didn’t wow that day. My second visit, in contrast, left me in awe at how much I enjoyed every dish!

The seafood-only menu was so varied and complex, that I didn’t miss the lack of a hefty land-animal course. The tableside preparation was especially outstanding, perhaps the best I’ve experienced.

Service was wonderful, approachable, and warm – a good description for the interior as well. I loved the wood tables and soft rugs, and the new layout with less tables felt more intimate. The timing was good, and though it was slower between a few courses, it felt appropriately leisurely. We opted for a couple bottles in lieu of the full pairing, and I enjoyed the two whites they picked for us within our price range.

Some highlights:

Geoduck - The layers of geoduck were woven like a rose, with citrus nestled among the layers. The server finished it off with a dollop of crème fraiche. This tiny tart was a flavor bomb, with a rich ham-like taste.

Seeds & Grains - This was a marvelous study of texture, with intricate tableside presentation. The server started by crushing pumpkin, sunflower, and buckwheat seeds with a sphere. He added a mixture of fermented squash and truffle, then added liquid from three vials – two oils and duck fat. This was poured into bowl containing trout roe and finished off with flowers and leaves.

The resulting mixture was so enjoyable to eat! There was nice pop from the trout roe, crunch from the seeds, creaminess from the duck fat, and the bold flavors of salty, tangy, sour, sweet. Just magical.

Brioche - I’ve come to expect a high quality bread course in Western tasting menus, and the brioche here was excellent. Intensely buttery and soft, accompanied by cultured house butter and whipped wagyu fat (yes, it was as amazing as it sounds).

Bass - The striped bass was perfectly tender and wonderful, but the two tiny chanterelles stole this show. I love mushrooms, and these two were perhaps the best tasting mushrooms I’ve ever had! So simple, yet so rich with umami and plenty of butter.

Matcha Tea Service - They use chicken bouillon instead of water. The chicken and matcha combination was like a strange symphony that absolutely worked.

I’m so glad I revisited Atelier Crenn! I also loved that I didn’t feel like a stuffed pig afterwards, and I wasn’t hungry either. This may have been the first tasting menu that was actually the right volume for me.

With this meal, Atelier Crenn has jumped into my top three favorite spots in the Bay Area, and I look forward to a...