Contessa — Restaurant in Floriana

There's nothing quite like The Phoenicia Hotel. Absolutely nothing. It's simply an architectural gem from the Victorian period which has now been internally revamped with a discerning eye, yet retaining all its grand character and charm.

The Contessa Restaurant lies right at the heart of the hotel, just as you pass the central lobby. We visited on a very warm Friday in early August for a birthday meal. We got there just before noon, a little worn out from our short walk under the scorching sun. As we stepped inside eagerly looking for respite, we felt the cool hotel ambiance starting to revive and sooth our spirits: palm fronds and suffused light streamed into the lobby while waiters in full livery served pre-meal drinks and nibbles amid subdued chatting by guests. We settled into a comfortable settee sipping prosecco and browsing the morning paper while waiting for the restaurant to open.

Once inside the restaurant, we were immediately taken to our table by the window overlooking the terrace and handed the menus. The menu is simple with around 3 choices per course but there's something for everyone: it offers meat, fish and vegan dishes. Also it's not overly long or fussy, a sign of good sense and planning. We chose a veggie dish for starters, went on to fish for seconds and ended with dessert. To note that the bread is prepared in-house by the restaurant and it was so crunchy and wonderful we took home an extra loaf. The tiramisu' was freshly prepared by the waiter at our table. The photos speak for themselves.

Staff were polite and professional, with a smile and a kind word or two but not overly chatty. Another good sign. Prices are fair for the level and for what you get on your plate. Expect to pay around EUR 60-70 per person for a 3 course meal. For us, it was money well spent and we're already planning to return more often and have lunch on the terrace when the weather gets a little cooler.

In conclusion, we think this is a culinary Olympic winner and certainly better than going out every weekend to some ordinary...

Sadly while the cuisine might be u to scratch, the Phoenix has become mercurial through management dysfunction...

Apart from booking disasters (tables confirmed in person booked over a month ahead being cancelled for no good reason barely a week or so in advance of the lunch), now the once pet friendly hotel has apparently reversed its pooch policy and banned dogs in the vast dining room and terrace where several dogs used to be able to sit undisturbed (albeit the rampaging children still permitted are not it seems overly troubled with discipline...).

Moreover having changed the policy without an announcement arriving for brunch to be turned away is as good an example of any to demonstrate how this hotel sadly fails to exemplify five star standards and is not up to scratch due to such management failings as a 'leading hotels of the world' branded entity.

A great pity as things began well after the Phoenicia refurbishment but now management have shifted to sadly disinterested in regular patrons who might bring fierce creatures (sic) to the premises.

There are a slew of competing hotels in Valletta and many other restaurants. Unless or until the Phoenix returns to its senses on its pooch policy I can't recommend. Alas.

Photo: in happier times after lunch when dogs were welcome...

As regular guests we had a great night out. I am happy to write this review beacause the last two visits months ago were very dissapointing. Already with the starters it became obvious they have a new chef who is properly trained. After our last visit I left my card "to have word" management. Although nobody every came back to me they probably realized they had a huge problem.

Hope they keep up the new good spirit. Small improvements could be made for the green salad and lettuce. A 5 star hotel cannot even have 1 mushy dark green leaf of salad. The sauce foe the filet beef could have been a bit denser and the black pepper ideally should not bebdry pepper. But then I prefer dry black pepper than fresh green peper which can often have atase of mould if chosen feom the wrong supplier.

Dessert also now on a good high level that you should expect for a place like that.

Overall very happy to have you "back". I would no longer be emabrassed to bringing my international guests...