I've had Cafe Carmellini on my list since it opened and was lucky enough to be taken there recently for a birthday/Father's Day visit. From the moment I sat down at the bar to wait for my party and chatted with the bartender who was effortlessly professional despite being a new dad of a 4-week-old himself, I knew I was in for a good night.
I'm a big Andrew Carmellini fan. Lafayette is on my regular rotation and Carne Mare is one of the most fun (and slept on) spots, so I had high expectations for Cafe Carmellini. In fact, I was worried about just how high my expectations were given that the restaurant is in the beautifully redone Fifth Avenue Hotel, has a stunning, old world opulence vibe, and supposedly highlighted the best of Carmellini's cooking in one place.
Imagine my relief to not only not be disappointed, but to actually walk away thinking that the experience was both excellent and, dare I say it, a good value?
Let's be clear though: Cafe Carmellini is not cheap. Depending on how you want to play the menu and beverages, hitting $200/pp is easy. For us though, considering we had the oysters, the sardine toast, the crab mille feuille, the mezzaluna, and the scallops--not to mention cocktails, wine, and dessert--I was honestly surprised the bill was "only" $400 and change. I've had plenty of fine dining meals where I felt like I had less food and paid $150-200 more, and that's also without the service or ambience of Cafe Carmellini.
Speaking of, I already mentioned the space but my lord is it nice. Blue banquettes, high-ceilings, faux foliage (with real plants too), eye-catching chandeliers with incandescent-esque bulbs... the décor has no shortage of flourishes to admire, all without seeming cold or stuffy, which itself might be the most impressive feat of all.
Service matches the space, straddling that hard-to-land line of excellent without being snooty. Everyone we interacted with was warm and had great senses of humor and while I was celebrating a special night, I did not get the impression that our treatment was any different from the rest of the room. This is something Carmellini's restaurants specialize in and considering how grating service can be at similarly priced spots, I think it's underrated how hard it is to get this service level right.
Back to the food: I was deeply satisfied with how much we ordered and how well-executed everything was. I've been on a no-oyster kick for a while but hearing about the pomme sorbet(?) made me curious and the end result was clean and bright and totally the opposite of the too-big too-briney oysters that seem so common these days. The sardine toast captured everything I love about sardines--the rich, oily fish, the savoriness--though if you're not a sardine fan, this dish won't change your mind (fwiw, I'm not sure one exists that will).
The crab mille feuille was an exercise in careful plate sharing and in delicate, flaky crab that I could've eaten all night long and the mezzaluna with its beet, trout roe, and golden osteria caviar seemed on paper like it might've been a pricey splurge, but in actuality was surprisingly umami and addictive, including a is-this-just-me? note of a late night halal combo plate that was so weird but also so, so good.
The one low performer was the still very good scallops cardoz, but that wasn't because the scallops were done poorly (they were excellent) or that they weren't sauced well (the coconut-curry sauce was flavorful but not heavy), but because they are the one item that we had which sat outside the bizarro French-Italian fusion that Cafe Carmellini does so incredibly well. In a different restaurant, these would be a standout, but coming after everything we got--especially the roe-salted, umami mezzaluna--it felt a bit anticlimactic.
Nonetheless, Cafe Carmellini is now a top contender for me in the "classy, excellent, no drama" category, sidestepping all the FOMO dining nonsense to deliver a 5-star meal in a space that feels like it's always been there, only...
Read moreCafé Carmellini, situated within the elegant Fifth Ave Hotel, is a dining destination that exudes sophistication and culinary artistry. My recent visit to this gem left me enchanted by the creative and flavorful dishes on offer, particularly the Kanpachi Aqua Pazza, Squash Blossom & Lobster, Risotto del Giorno with truffles, and the Scallops alla Plancha with Sauce Diablo and corn.
Kanpachi Aqua Pazza: A Mediterranean Masterpiece
The Kanpachi Aqua Pazza is a dish that transports you directly to the coastal waters of the Mediterranean. The kanpachi, with its firm and flaky texture, is impeccably cooked, allowing its mild and delicate flavor to shine through. The aqua pazza, a traditional Italian broth, is infused with garlic, tomatoes, and a hint of white wine, providing a robust yet balanced base that complements the fish beautifully. The dish is finished with a sprinkle of fresh herbs and a drizzle of olive oil, adding a fragrant and earthy note that ties the entire composition together.
Squash Blossom & Lobster: A Symphony of Summer Flavors
The Squash Blossom & Lobster is a dish that celebrates the bounty of summer. The lobster, tender and succulent, is paired with delicate squash blossoms that are lightly battered and fried to perfection. The blossoms add a subtle sweetness and a hint of floral flavor, which contrasts beautifully with the rich, buttery lobster. The dish is elevated by a zesty lemon beurre blanc, which adds a bright and tangy dimension, perfectly balancing the richness of the lobster. A scattering of fresh herbs and a dash of sea salt complete this elegant and harmonious dish.
Risotto del Giorno with Truffles: A Luxurious Indulgence
The Risotto del Giorno with truffles is a luxurious and comforting dish that showcases the kitchen’s skill in creating perfectly creamy and flavorful risotto. The rice is cooked to an ideal al dente texture, each grain perfectly coated in a rich, velvety sauce. The earthy aroma and intense flavor of the truffles permeate the dish, adding a layer of decadence that is simply irresistible. A sprinkle of Parmesan cheese and a drizzle of truffle oil provide the finishing touches, making this risotto a true indulgence for the senses.
Scallops alla Plancha with Sauce Diablo and Corn: A Bold and Fiery Finale
The Scallops alla Plancha with Sauce Diablo and corn is a dish that packs a punch. The scallops, seared to a perfect golden brown, are tender and juicy, with a subtle sweetness that is beautifully complemented by the smoky, charred corn. The Sauce Diablo, with its fiery heat and complex blend of spices, adds a bold and exciting element that elevates the dish to new heights. The sweetness of the corn and the richness of the scallops are balanced by the spice of the sauce, creating a dish that is both bold and harmonious.
Conclusion
Café Carmellini at the Fifth Ave Hotel delivers a dining experience that is both refined and innovative. The Kanpachi Aqua Pazza, Squash Blossom & Lobster, Risotto del Giorno with truffles, and Scallops alla Plancha with Sauce Diablo and corn are all exemplary dishes that highlight the restaurant’s commitment to quality, creativity, and flavor. Whether you’re a lover of fine dining or simply seeking a memorable meal, Café Carmellini is a destination that should...
Read moreThis place has officially become one of my favorites in the city — why did I only just discover it? Truly one of the best meals I’ve had this year. I’ve already been twice in a month, and both times were spectacular.
Too often in NYC fine dining, I find myself surrounded by business diners — all show, no substance. You end up paying for the ambience. But not here. Not this time.
If it’s your first time, try everything I ordered on my first visit — an insider-approved selection.
Bread Warm, adorable sourdough arrives fresh 4min in and out of the oven, served with butter and olive oil. Don’t miss the Parmesan breadsticks, beautifully presented like flowers in a vase. The bread is perfect for soaking up every last bit of sauce from the dishes.
First: Crab & Meyer Lemon Mille-Feuille Crispy biscuit layers stacked with sweet crab, sitting in a pool of thick Meyer lemon sauce. Seasonal and refreshing — light, crunchy, citrusy, and incredibly satisfying.
Second: Duck Duck Duck Tortellini An absolute showstopper. Four duck-filled tortellini topped with foie gras foam and drizzled in duck jus. The foam is airy yet intense — rich, silky, and lingering with luxurious depth. I wiped the plate clean with the bread.
Entrée: Squab en Croûte A stunning take on Wellington. Rosy squab, deep foie gras richness, and the delicate pastry wraps it all in a buttery, crisp embrace. Indulgent but refined. Loved the balsamic and cherries for garnishes — and yes, more plate-wiping with bread.
Dessert: Olive Oil & Sorrento Lemon Coppa This is recommended by our server, as voted the crowd favorite among the staffs. — and I get why. Like sorbet layered over mousse or gelato. Bright, creamy, and refreshing, the Sorrento lemon bursts through the silky olive oil mousse with a perfect balance of citrus and richness. Like summer in a glass.
On top of that, everyone greets me with so much hospitality. They are so happy to have you and they made sure you know it and feel it. I just felt very lucky and happy that I found here.
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Second Visit Highlights
First: Oysters à la Pomme Oysters with sorbet and melon pieces, unexpected, playful, chilled, and clean— the briny oysters meet the icy brightness of sorbet and sweet melon in a burst of ocean and orchard. Quite a sea breeze on a summer day.
Second: Quail & Mandarin (now Apricot) Perfect doneness on the quail, my friend phrased it highly. Quails sat over soft lentils soaked in jus. I dug the lentils like crazy. Fruity, meaty, and deeply satisfying.
Entrée: Rabbit Cacciatore Rich, umami-packed hunter-style rabbit. Some meat served free-form, some in sausage — offering two textures. Braised rabbit and mushrooms soaked in an aromatic tomato sauce. Old-world comfort at its finest.
Dessert: Strawberry Chartreuse, Fromage Blanc Peak-season California strawberries, fromage blanc, and biscuit pieces — like a deconstructed strawberry cheesecake with a balsamic twist. Pure indulgence.
PS: mocktails are amazing too. The mescal one is but strong and spicy, while the elderflower one is sweet. This place is great for groups and very...
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